The Cows of Jailsalmer

It's our last day in Jaisalmer and I wanted to take a break to reflect on my time in India so far.

With all its many downsides, there is a lot that's good to say about India. Now that I've got over my initial shock I am starting to love this country. It is not just the amazing and monumental sites, it's the majestic landscapes, it's also its people. If you are able to see beyond the touts and the scum that pollutes it's tourist centres, the over eager traders that hassle you, you will discover that the people here are warm, caring and funny.

They are truly interested in you, to a point that you may find intrusive. I don't think they know what personal space is. Sometimes I feel like I am in the Bollywood remake of "My Big Fat Greek Wedding". "You are vegeterian, here have my mousaka". All very surreal.

Our new American friend, Mary, specifically ordered a chicken burger, and just the bun with the gherkin. Nothing else.

The burger arrived with a fried egg on top.

So the burger went back to the kitchen. Can I have a new one, without the egg?

Here comes back the same burger with the egg scrapped off.

So Mary, typical West Coast American, gets on the phone and calls Customer Services..."I asked for a chicken burger, just the bun, and the gherkin, nothing more, nothing less''...

"So you just want bread, burger and gherkin, just that?"..."Exactly, just that''...

"...but, would you like an egg with that???"


Jaisalmer is a magical city. As we sat on a roof top restaurant earlier the air filled with the noise from the buzzing market. I could really see the place as a setting for "Arabian Nights". However, if Ali Baba would have ridden out of his fort into this desert, instead of facing giants it would have been windmills.

2500 windmills have been put up in just over a year and a half as another demonstration of India's potential. Obviously some may consider them eye sores, destroying the wonderful landscape. I personally see them as a source of income for these people and a hope for the world as we fight climate change.

The icing on the cake in this city is the great German Bakery. They've got some really good chocolate croissants for Rs30. It's just missing a decent espresso. A Masala Chai is just not the same...

One last thing I love about this town are the cows. I have found the cows all over India completely mad. They just stand waiting for the traffic to drive around them, and here they wait by the door, expecting to be let in, sometimes in lines across the street.

They are completely bonkers and I am absolutely infatuated by them.

And here's one final cow. Not only was she determined to get in, she was also checking that everyone could see her...

Off to Jodphur on another night train...