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Tonight we are taking another sleeping bus. It is the third night in a row that I won't be sleeping in a bed. It is a good way to save money but sometimes it has been the only way available for us to travel and, as we have not got a lot of time, we didn't want to waste time in the border town.
I am now desperate for a shower. In this sweltering heat I have gone native. The acidic smell of my BO has dried so much that I no longer smell it or, even worse, I have become immune to it. We are about to get to Katmandu. I was really looking forward to it but have discovered that is a town of ¾ of a million people. Not the small quaint city I thought, not another beautiful Laung Prabang, more a Vientiane.
We have to go there to buy a few things, a sleeping bag, a fleece and maps etc. I am a bit nervous about this trek. We are going to ascend to 4600 metres. I don't think I have ever been above 2000 metres and we are going without a guide...Lots of people do it, and there are two of us, so I am sure everything will be ok. I am trusting that Ignasi is as responsible and knowledgeable as he seems. I am also very aware of the symptoms of Acute Mountain Sickness and how to avoid it. I will be very strict about the rate we ascend at. The most important thing is that we allow our hearts to acclimatize. Well hearts and whole bodies. I am so energised by this part of the trip. Of everything I have done so far this is, by a mile, the most adventurous, and something I could never have done on my own. Actually, one thing I do know is that this type of trekking is like diving, you should never do it on your own. It is well beyond my comfort zone, not only due to the challenge it is in itself but also due to the fact that I am going with someone I hardly know. I am going to spend two weeks in the Himalayas with a stranger. Having said that, it is probably easier than spending it with a close friend. I have come to realise that when you are with strangers you are a lot more careful and considerate. I hope when I go back home that I will be as considerate with my friends. Just for my own peace of mind, I am going to register with the British embassy in case we get lost......
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