Ashley and myself resting for a minute...i don't think red is my colour
Clearly cows also like surfing in Nicaragua
There has been two recurrent themes on my one year trip, that I keep bring back to this blog.
One is why do I do the things that I do, what do I put myself through the shame of a toilet door falling on me in India, or the physical pain I went through to climb volcan Concepcion.
The other theme, is that I am starting to like too many adrenaline fuelled hobbies, that cost a lot of money, mostly cos I can only practise them away from home, such as diving, mountain trekking, etc...
And now, thanks to Ashley and my grand idea of spending to days in a surf town I got a new one.
God I love surfing.
Resting for a minute with my instructor Hugo
I am clumpsy, with no sense of balance, so before I managed to ride one wave I hurt myself plenty of time, though mostly the only thing that got hurt was my pride.
A wave just breaking behind us
Why do I put myself through this? How did I end up, at my age, in a little surfer town trying to stand on a far to small board flying on some wave? Should I not be doing something else?
But I guess the point of this trip is to discover new things, to try other stuff away from those that took me down the wrong path.
And once you manage ride one wave, the adrenaline rush is awesome. I don't want to leave. I want to stay here and do it again.
I guess it does help that I met Ashley and a few others here, sharing with people experiences like that, is still better than experiencing it alone.
Let The Games Begin!!!
4 years ago