a degree a day

Next: Venice and the Carnival

2012-02-10T07:41:00.000-08:00

I got back to the UK in the middle of a cold snap, my tan fall off me as I walked out of the Heathrow Express, still on my check shorts!!!!

I can't wait for my next trip, only one week away, I am going to Venice for the Carnival.

I am so excited.

Church of Santo Domingo in Lima, stairs, vertigo and an unexpected view of Poverty

2012-02-04T13:57:00.000-08:00

On my last day in Lima I got up really early and spent the day walking around, burning the calories from the Breakfast buffet, topping up my tan ( I am still single and vain ), enjoying the sunshine, it is minus, God knows how much back in London, and sightseeing.

After some good old fashion lies, I don't mind heights, I made my way up to the bell tower in Santo Domingo's church. I was never expecting to get so high up, floor after floor. I never have a problem going up, well almost never, the problem is coming down ( You never get to heaven if you scare of getting high !!!! )

I was taking back by the view, the slums rising over the desolated hills, barren of all vegetation, which probably has been used for cooking. All the signs I have seen all over the developing world. Yet there, I didn't see one single church. While in Guatemala Catholic priests were being killed for standing with the poor against the Government, here they are the Establishment, their churches beautifully embellished, and kept.
I am sure there are hundreds of priest doing a commendable job, fighting the cause of the poor, but the Church and its Pope, their hate of condoms, their love of wealth, spreads AIDS and stop family planning.

Slums of Lima ( Click in image for full view )

Lima, dirty, noisy and grim, God I love it

2012-02-03T18:36:00.000-08:00

Having just been for four days in Santiago, going between Alto Las Condes and Parque Arauco, getting into Lima is a breath of 'dirty' air and say that with joy. The town is noisy, filthy, full of micro buses, it is India, Guatemala, Colombia all over again.

Lima's Main Square ( Click on image for full size )

It is crowded, people stares at me, rich whites wondering why am I walking around, the working class why am I not in a large 'carro'. But at the same time they smile, and when you struggle in the bus they tell you to sit down, or that you have reached your destination.

Lima seems to be able to just about balance the fact that is a living megacity with its cultural richness. As its 9 million people get on with their lives, I have walked around and enjoyed a bit of sightseeing.
Yet somehow I could not help but to notice that hardly anyone else was doing that.
Has Lima given itself such a bad reputation that people are scare of walking around?

San Francisco

I was taken back when I found out that our local contact, a very nice lady will not even drive herself to some of the department stores and will only go by taxi as she is convinced her car will be taken from the car park.

The 2nd Wonder

2012-02-02T17:59:00.000-08:00

I have been in three different countries in one week, and not since I experience the Wonder Girls and the 1st Wonder I have seen anything remotely near the success of Adele. She is everywhere, in airports, in Hotel lounges, in Malls, she is being murdered in Parque Arauco by the lunch time singer, some very odd costume they have in Chile's open air Mall.
I don't think never has anyone in the history of mankind made so much money out of a broken heart and being dumped, good for her!!!
And she is a chain smoker from South London!!!
I am not sure if we should compare

Adele

The old video of the Wonder Girls no longer works so here is a new one

Wonder Girls

Click here to take you to the Video

A different Chile : Alto Las Condes

2012-02-01T15:09:00.000-08:00

Urban Sunset

I am spending a few days in Santiago, in an area known as Alto Las Condes, green, leafy, glass buildings, but at the same time sanitasied and very American.
It is a different Chile than the one I saw down in Valparaiso, this is the one storming ahead with the price of copper going through the roof and the dollar down, but are many enjoying this life.
Well it seems that life is getting better, at least in Santiago, they have reached full employment, with jobless figures down to 6.1%, but I can't help to wonder, are many here in a job that is probably not paying them enough. I was shocked to find out that the people that help you pack your bags in the supermarkets don't get paid, but actually pay for providing that service....

And somehow we complain about Britain!!!

Nonetheless, I am enjoying being here, the sun is shinning and I am away from Watford!!!!

A new life : Mothercare

2012-01-31T03:27:00.000-08:00

Since returning back to the UK at the very beginning of 2010, life has been a bit of a roller coaster, with the dreaded threat of unemployment looming over me, the breaking of a leg, and almost falling in love, but not really getting there, and I don't like leaving things unfinished.
However, with its ups and down, life seems to, step by step, have straighten its path.
Although my leg still plays up, and there is no one to love, that sounds like a cheap song, I got a job, and the job brings with it one of the great perks, to travel.
I am now working for Mothercare, one of the most iconic British brands, and as part of the International division I do get to travel a fair bit.

Getting ready for the launch

However, could I really call travel seating on the 16th floor of a 4 star hotel in Santiago, over the main shopping Mall, Parque Arauco?

I guess I could be a travel snob and say that only when you are slamming it, and I have done plenty of that, when you really get to mix with the locals, you are traveling. However, I am getting to this see new places I have never been, to understand people, their dreams and aspirations. Sadly those remind me of the ones we had in Spain in years that now seem long gone, when we spent, spent and spent.

Remembering ( Part 2 )

2012-01-28T13:23:00.000-08:00

I was in Madrid yesterday, and while walking around town I came across a Republican demonstration. Republicans in Spain have got very little to do with the bigots, racist and homephobic lot that for a while was headed by George W Bush.
They were asking for the whereabouts, the memories of the thousands that dissapeared following Franco´s victory.

For years Spain decided to ignore the issue, the needs of a newborn democracy and the need to keep the military happy led to things being, if not forgotten, silenced.
Somehow ironic, yesterday was the day we remember the Victims of the Holocaust. I think we should always remember them, visiting the camps should be compulsory, but how have not even been able to face our own demons.
Franco´s crimes against humanity, and those on the other side, did not reach the level of sophistication the Nazis accomplished, the industrial killing of millions, the attempt to anhilate several ethnic groups, Jews, Gypsies, but nonetheless it was a crime against humanity.

Federico Garcia Lorca, he did have it all against him, A Poet, A Red, A Poof, he was among those killed by Franco and his troops

On Top Of The World

2011-12-31T13:11:00.000-08:00

The Andes

It is strange how sometimes everything seems to just fall into place. You may not even realized when that happens, but one small thing, sometimes meaningless and unrelated will open your eyes and make you realized that somehow everything just keeps getting better. The clouds are nothing more than just that, clouds, not the giants that you have thought they were.

This is not the Park Plaza or the Marriot

2011-11-15T07:57:00.001-08:00

As I had a weekend for myself while in Chile I decided to popped out of Santiago, leave behind the luxury of the Park Plaza Hotel and go back to my roots, find a cheap hostel and talk to strangers, and with a bit of luck even drink with strangers like in the old days traveling through India or Central America.

I am in Chile on a business trip, and although I have had to downgrade from the Marriot to the Park Plaza I am fairly certain that I will not be sharing my bed with little insects like it happened in Laos, or sadly not waking up in a room with 5 22 year-olds from Germany like in Ecuador, at some God forsaken hour, rum-o'clock....travelling on the cheap has its advantages and dissadvantages.

Valparaiso was everything I had expected, decayed and beautiful, steep hills cover on a cascade of colour. The old port town, the entry to Chile before Airbuses started filling up the sky. But even a visit to the cementery reminds you that the town has seen better days.

Nonetheless, it is in town like this were people comes and talks to you, were an old lady will offer her help when you are looking at a map trying to make up where the North is.

Remembering

2011-11-14T17:58:00.001-08:00

As I was walking around Santiago I came to reflect on those that we seem to have forgotten on Rememberance day.
I have always have the upmost respect for those that have died for our country, and in this I feel more British that I would ever feel Spanish. Everyone that knows me, knows that I respect and remember those that die to defend Britain.
Nonetheless, should we not be remembering those that die defending the freedom of their country against those supported by Britain our Allies?
As I walked around Santiago I saw the memorial to President Allende, who in 1973 refusse to leave the Presidential Palace as a military coup supported by the CIA brought down a government democratically elected.

Until the day of his death he never lost his faith on the people of his country, as the Memorial reminds us

' I have never lost my faith in the people of Chile '

President Salvador Allende ( 1908 -1973 )

Time to re-visit my old friend

2011-11-12T08:54:00.000-08:00

It has almost been two years since I stopped this blog of mine. However, for some reason I felt the need to rekindle myself with the old "a degree a day"

As I arrived in Valparaiso, Chile I decided that it was long overdue that I posted something on here.

I am in Chile for ten days, it is a work trip, but that has, for once, got a bit of free time.

I have managed to see my friend Consuelo, from my old days in Nepal.

And I have also felt the need to express my political views and a bit of social commentary, about a country that is growing fast but leaving many behind. For its many advantages capitalism, specially raw as sadly has been applied here benefits the few and not many.

Learning to ski in Leitariegos, Leon

2009-12-22T08:20:00.000-08:00

So after a year where I have picked every expensive hobby I could imagine, I am finishing off my year away by learning to ski.

A no better time to head to the mountains that when we are going through a wave of Siberian weather. Why do we do this? A recurrent question this year, but could not help to wonder while I was waiting for the Maria and Pablo in the street and it was -6 degrees.

On our way to the ski resort we went down a valley that was at -17 degrees!!!

As always I have struggled with this skiing thing, I am so clumpsy, but I am hoping that next weekend we will go again, and I will take another lesson and I should improve a bit.

One thing that drives me absolutely potty is to see the 4 year olds skiing better than me...then again anyone does it better than me!!!

Anyway, at least I will be topping up my tan doing this

Betanzos and its Old Town

2009-12-21T08:31:00.000-08:00

As my friend Maria rightly says, this could easily compete with any of the churches that are shown in The Da Vinci Code. I am now back in Europe.

As I landed all Europe has been hit by cold weather, my intention initially was to declare myself as an illegal inmigrant, hoping I would get a free flight back to Colombia...but I decided that all good things must come to an end. Also, I really could not find any excuses to give my parents not to spend Xmas with them.

So now I am back in Galicia and have gone to a town called Betanzos to see close friends that live there.

One of my favourite churches on the whole trip, at night or during the day, has been there for hundreds of year, and still stunning

I am not really sure why do they have Diana, the Greek God, in the middle of Betanzos, but hey ho, who am I to comment on that

Sometimes during this year I have realized that we go very long distances, we travel the world to vist new places, and sometimes we forget the beautiful places that we have near by. I have trekked in the Himalayas, but have never gone to the Pyrenees. I may have visited lots of colonial towns in Central and South America, such as Antigua, but I have never been to some of the most beautiful old towns in Spain, such as Burgos.

Little cobbled street, just beautiful

Betanzos has a Roman bridge, Romanesce churches that can easily match the French ones, and a beautiful old town to visit, yet I had never appreciated how beautiful this town is.

The perfect place to have a wee coffee

It is funny that this trip has made me see this, I lived 10 km away from it for 16 year, and only now I have come to realized.

I guess it is also the fact that I now love taking pictures, and I seem to be looking at things differently.

My friend Pablo has lent me his camera, after mine was stolen, so I have been walking around and looking for those pics. Sadly, and Pablo does agree with me on this, Betanzos is beautiful, but a complete bi*ch to photograph. He has explained something about light, narrow streets, etc...

It also shows some of what in Galicia is called Feismo, Uglysm...a complete disrespect for town planning...and there are plenty of buildings that are just falling apart...

The Art of Bus Travelling in South America

2009-12-14T12:55:00.000-08:00

Is this really a bus, or some 70's SF toy?

Travelling by bus in South America seems to be a lot harder than it has been anywhere, probably excluding the mad bus runs in Nepal.
It is very different than in Central America, as here there is no set prices, and you need to huggle the price down. On top of that, every bus tells you they are about to leave. A couple of times I made the mistake of paying in advance...and had to argue for a while to get my cash back as the bus, an hour later was still not going anywhere, and others were leaving.
But nothing beats yesterday, it will be one of those bus journeys to remember.
Having crossed from Ecuador back to Colombia I was trying to get half way through the South of Colombia, an 8 hour bus journey.
I was not too surprised when we got stopped by the police, and asked to come down. We were thoroughly searched, though I did wonder what could I hide under a pair shorts and a vest. While all of this is going on 4 young indigenous women try to make a run. Clearly, the poor women, and baby, were illegals trying to get into Colombia.
I was feeling really sorry for them, though I must the police handeling them politely, when I get called by another policeman back into the bus.
I was absolutely shocked to find the policeman pointing at a suspicious package that had been left on my seat.
But this time I was probably shaking so badly which probably made me look guilty.
I did manage to explain to the police that the girls had been seating next to me, that they had not come down with all of us. Anyway, I also brought to his attention that it was a woman's top...how dare him to think I would wear something on that level of green?
After a long while the bus is allowed to carry on leaving behind the women, the baby and the package.
I am minding my own business when a poor senile old man starts puking over himself, first a dribble that ends up on projectile vomit over the two passengers in front of him.
By this time I decide I have had enough of buses, and my last 9 hours bus to Bogota have been replaced by an hour flight....
Tomorrow I will be flying back to Europe, no more buses falling apart, policemen touching me up, or strange packages left on my seat.....God I am going to miss it all!!!!

Quito, the Old Town and its Dangers

2009-12-06T10:48:00.000-08:00

I have been in Quito for a few days now.
The Old Town has been declared a World Heritage Site, and rightly so. It is a beautiful part of the city with some great squares and some great churches.
Sadly it is also a place filled with pickpocketers and petty thieves.
While I was in a bus with my friend Eva my camera was taking from my pocket.
To be honest I should have not been so careless, I should have taken my rucksack.
There is not much I can do now about it, but replace it once I get back to the UK, and try to get the insurance to pay for it.
Sadly it has put a sour note on my visit to this town.
La Compania Church

Of all the churches that we visit one really caught our attention, La Compania, is an extravangaza of gold leaf, decorations...it almost looks like big camp Christmas decoration, it is like what a gay club would look if it was a church.
Quito is currently celebrating 200 years of the call for Independence, big band playing in the Main Sqaure

Sanctuary of Lajas

2009-12-02T07:32:00.000-08:00

Sanctuary of Lajas
I have just visited the Sanctuary of Lajas, near the border of Colombia and Ecuador.
The santuary is the fourth that stands were the Virgin appeared to an Indian and her little daughter, and she is meant to be very powerful.
Legends says that the mute little Indian girl spoke for the first time and said ¨ La Mestiza me ha hablado mami¨ that could be translated as ¨ Mum, the mixed raced one has spoken to me¨
The place has a Harry Potter look to it, the neogothic church has been built in an amazing gorge, surrounded by mountains with a river running underneath.
Legend says that the main image of the Virgin was not painted, it just appeared in the 18th century and has maintained its colour despite the elements, it was in the open for a while, and the candles constantly burning.
Along the path are plaques from people thanking the Virgin for numerous miracles.
You can´t help but feel a sense of awe, and to be touched by the devotion of these people.

My experience was a bit strange, as I walked away from the church to get a better view, I came across a snake. To be honest I looked at it, and for once, I only saw a rope. Normally I see snakes when they are only ropes. However, when it lifted its head and moved, my heart skipped a beat....was I trying to be good and say a prayer, and the serpent showed itself to me?

I am now in Ecuador, the last country I will visit before heading back to Europe

Trekking to the Lost City of Tayrona

2009-11-24T18:04:00.000-08:00

View from the top of the town over the main Temple
A late afternoon view from the Lost City. The mountains at the end are the unexplored part of the Sierra, where white men are not allowed, and the Kogis still live like they have done for centuries, hunting with bows & arrows.
The view as we leave on the first day, almost at the top of the mountain at the back we will eventually find the Lost City

I am just back from a 5 day trek to the Lost City of the Tayrona in the Sierra Nevada National Park.
The area used to be called Green Hell, and now I understand why. I did not realise that a human body could sweat as much as I did.
I have been bitten to death by mosquitoes and managed to poison myself with 97% DEET that then gave me the runs. I was worried about snakes after a girl from one of the villages we passed got bitten by a poisonous one while we were there.
However it was, without a doubt, one of the best experiences of this trip. A great way for this year to come to an end. I have now decided that I am challenged out, I have had enough of pushing myself and for the next few weeks I am just going to relax.
All along the trek we came across the original stone path set by the Tayrona over a 1000 years ago

The trek starts at around 200 metres above sea level and finishes at 1300, in the famous Lost City that was only found by tomb raiders in 1974. Although it starts in an area mostly used for agriculture, and until very recently for growing coca, most of the trek takes place in deep jungle.
The first day we got a taste of what was to come when, after having walked for only three hours, it started to rain. From then onwards there was not a single moment when I felt dry.
We were lucky with the rain, the last hour of the first day was downwards......the path turned into a river of mud. Nonetheless we were lucky, another group's car had broken down on the way to the start of the walk so they caught the rain and the mud on the way up and on the way down.
Accomodation throughout the trek is in hammocks under a tin roof. The hammocks have got mosquito nets, but, by the time you get to bed, you are already covered with bites.
As the days pass you walk deeper into the jungle and the views just keep getting better. I had never been in a place like this, so green and lush.
Clearly it is not the Hilton

But then again, how many Hiltons have this early evening view
Or this early morning light
One of the unexpected side effects of the government destroying all coca fields is that a large part of the 'campesinos' that were working these fields decided to migrate to the cities and not work in lower cash crops. Now the government aims to buy as much of the agricultural land as possible and revert it to forest and to its original owners, the Kogis, descendants of the Tayrona.
A little Kogi girl in one of the villages

We did cross several Kogi villages. Sadly following the Spanish invasion, the Tayrona culture was lost, and its descendants are far from the heights of their ancestors. If the Tayrona built complex stone cities, the kogis live in rounded mud houses. They have now lost the ability to work gold, their pottery is extremely rustic and rough.
Kogi village
The Kogi use this machine, that is pulled by a donkey to crush sugar cane

Talking to our guide you lose the romantic idea of the life of the Indians. One thing that really shocked me was the raw deal women get in this society. Men do not work, except for two years when they work for their mother-in-law-to-be. Men need to rest so they can have meetings with their leader and chew coca leaves mix with sea shell dust.
Women on the other hand are meant to work the fields and breed. One child a year, or the husband has the right to take another wife. The same applies when women reach the end of their fertily life.

After three days walking, having crossed the river Buritaca nine times, completely soaked, and having climbed the final 2000 steps, we reached the Lost City.

They believe that there are around 1000 round houses in the city, and several temples, although only about 300 have been excavated.

Before the archaeologists arrived, the city had been raided for around 2 years by a group of 5 cuaqueros, until one got drunk back in Santa Marta and bragged about the city and the treasures they have found.

This has probably been the hardest trek I have done in this trip. Although not as intense as climbing Volcan Concepcion, it was longer, and the conditions are much harder. Humidity, heat, mosquitoes, all add up a Green Hell.

However, the harder the challenge is, it seems that the sense of achievement is greater. Once again, I felt like the old men in the group. And also the unfittest. It seems that everyone just raced ahead of me and left me grasping for air as we walked.

A Few Days in Cartagena

2009-11-19T14:49:00.000-08:00

Sunset in Cartagena
Even here you will find a Hard Rock Cafe...sad

The light is just beautiful....sadly it is not my pic but David'sI love this street mural, a truly Caribbean piece of popular art
For once, there are a few pics of me....it is the good thing of traveling for a while with a friend

Double click on the pic, you can see a view of the town from the Spanish fort, and if you want the back of David's neck

My favourite pic...
Cartagena is an amazing city, with a simmilar feeling than Havana, though lacking on the feeling of security you get there.
You can walk in Havana late at night without worrying about anything. Here things are different. Then again, the reason Havana is so safe has a lot to do with neighbours spying on each other.
Cartagena is the typical town that has a gorgeous old town that has been refurbished, at least partly.
What makes it striking is that there is a new city built in a peninsula that has a Maimi feel to it.
It is not my cup of tea, but the mix of old and new has its beauty.
The old and the new...the walls from the old city, a man in a canoe, and the new miamiesque city in the background

Even the old city mixes its beautiful parts with the more decayed ones...the part where real people lives, where they seat outside enjoying the cooling breeze coming from the sea late in the afternoon.
Poverty is still rampant. Sadly, in some of the poorer parts of town, the smell of rotten meat and fruit is almost overpowering....it has just been left out of the tourist circuit.
As in any tourist town, touts are getting around. Some are harmless, not even irritating, others have to be avoided, offering drugs, girls, boys, whatever a tourist may want....they remind you that poverty is here and not going anywhere anytime soon

Tayrona National Park and its beaches with some great snorkeling thrown in for good meassure

2009-11-14T12:40:00.000-08:00

View from the main beach back into the forestSunrise in Tayrona

Double click on picOne the main beaches in Tayrona.
Double click on the pic
Taking a wee rest

David and I have spent a few days in Tayrona National Park, it is one of the more accessible and popular parks in Colombia, with both local and international tourists, and it is quite easy to see why.
The main attraction of the park is its secluded beaches set amongst dense forest, covered with palm trees, and with pristine waters.
Although a couple of its beaches are too dangerous to swim in, there is a sign in one telling you that over 200 people have died there, most of them are sheltered by a belt of rocks.
Some of the birdlife we had as neighbours in our days there

I was so excited to find a turtle grazing in the sea grass in the main beach and I just stayed swimming with her for a very long time.
There is not much in terms of infrastructure, and to get to the beach from the first accommodation area you need to walk for around 45 minutes carrying your bags.
Most people camp there will just sleep in a hammock, however, we decided to take a cabin. It is a bit expensive but this is a mosquito infested area and we both knew we were not going to sleep in the open air.
As you normally find when you are in a National Park, a man in a suit in the water

Although there are bins dotted around the park it seems that the staff who work there are not as concerned about the environment as they should be. Next to one of the eateries you will find a rusting fridge - a disheartening sight amidst this beauty.

Next stop on the trip, Cartagena.

Villa de Leyva

2009-11-10T16:49:00.000-08:00

Villa de Leyva Cathedral in the Plaza Mayor

We decided to spend a couple of days in Villa de Leyva, which is meant to be the most beautiful colonial town in Colombia. Set in the lower Andes, at a similar altitude to Bogota, it has been preserved beautifully, with no modern buildings to disturb the white-washed, low rise houses and cobbled streets.

One of the little side streets, with David walking down the street all moody in black

The town is stunning, yet for all its beauty, the only thing I could think about was how barren the landscape was when we were arriving there. As we were getting closer to it the landscape becomes almost lunar. Pastures turn to semi-desert, and hills are depleted of all life.

View from the Plaza Mayor, the hills barren of all vegetation

The huge plaza, in the middle of the town, is a great place to have a few beers and enjoy the sunset. The town has been used as the setting for an El Zorro telenovela.

Panoramic of the Plaza, double click on the pic to enlarge

For all its charms, sometimes I feel that travel guides set your expectations too high. This is not the fairy tale land that The Lonely Planet or Bradt make you believe you will find. It is a pretty little town, worth visiting, but not much more than that.

The last few days have been early risers, and today has been no exception, getting up at 6am and enjoying the morning light. Walking around the town we've been followed by a dog that has adopted us since yesterday. He would stand outside every church we went in, every shop.

David and our little friend that followed us for two days

On our way back from Villa de Leyva we stopped in a town called Tunja, famous for its beautiful colonial churches. However, the thing that stuck with me the most were the pig's heads in the market.

Tomorrow we'll be off to the Caribbean, time to enjoy the beach and hopefully to refamiliarise myself with my new hobby...surf!!!

Bogota and La Candelaria

2009-11-08T16:58:00.000-08:00

I love the colours of some of the houses in La Candelaria

Cathedral of Bogota

View over Bogota from the mountains, not a pretty sight ( double click on image )

I am really liking Bogota.

I had such low expectations of this town. I am not that keen on large cities, and Bogota has a reputation for crime, pollution, and having 8 million people.

Nonetheless the town has parts with great charm, especially the old town.

View from La Candelaria to the mountains

Its people are really friendly and welcoming, however visiting different parts of town you get to see the stark social differences that sadly pulled this country apart.

David and I went up to Unicentro, the big shopping centre in the North part of the town. The North is the wealthier, more European suburban area. Both of us clearly noticed the differences, especially from an ethnic point of view. You could be forgiven for mistaking this area for a middle class suburb in Madrid or any large Spanish town.

More than anywhere else I have been, wealth is related to race and background.

Leo, David and I at Montserate, the chapel on top of one the mountains overlooking Bogota

The last Tona and the Salt Cathedral of Zipaquira

2009-11-04T18:19:00.000-08:00

Eeries pics of the main cross of the Salt Cathedral

It is funny how things can change so quickly when you are traveling, the places that you are, the environment.
Two days ago I was in Nicaragua, learning to surf, drinking Tona or Flor de Cana with Ashley.
Last Tona at sunset

Earlier today I was in the Salt Cathedral near Bogota, in a town called Zipaquira, saying a little prayer and hoping that my 36th year will be as good as my 35th, but maybe God can throw in a wee job, and some health for those who need it most.
Yesterday I got to Bogota, and managed to get into town on a public bus. I know believe that taking buses here is a new art form, the signs are just meaningless. However, people here are really helpful, even cab drivers will point you in the right direction for a bus, none of that ' buses are not running today or are dangerous' business I have seen in so many other places.
I am staying with a friend of a friend of mine, Leo. It has been really nice to know someone here to get around the town in the first few days. My friend David is arriving tomorrow, just in time for my birthday.
One of the first things you notice when you get to Bogota is how much more European people looks. Although I was still the tallest person in the bus, or in any of the buses I took today I have stopped feeling like Gulliver.
As Leo is got a few days off we decided to visit this cathedral that is not in David's list of things to do, and I won't need to do again with him.
The church is around 50 kilometres away from Bogota. It is has been carved into a salt mine that has been worked since the 16th century.
Funnily enough I had visit something simmilar, the Wieliczka mines, a couple of years back...exactly at the same time of year.
As in Poland there is beauty in this place, and the way it has been discretly iluminated gives a modern take on what is, essentially, a church. But you could also imagine being an amazing club.
Zipaquira from the hills where the mine is

Learning to Surf in San Juan del Sur

2009-11-01T16:14:00.000-08:00

Ashley and myself resting for a minute...i don't think red is my colour
Clearly cows also like surfing in Nicaragua
There has been two recurrent themes on my one year trip, that I keep bring back to this blog.
One is why do I do the things that I do, what do I put myself through the shame of a toilet door falling on me in India, or the physical pain I went through to climb volcan Concepcion.
The other theme, is that I am starting to like too many adrenaline fuelled hobbies, that cost a lot of money, mostly cos I can only practise them away from home, such as diving, mountain trekking, etc...
And now, thanks to Ashley and my grand idea of spending to days in a surf town I got a new one.
God I love surfing.
Resting for a minute with my instructor Hugo

I am clumpsy, with no sense of balance, so before I managed to ride one wave I hurt myself plenty of time, though mostly the only thing that got hurt was my pride.
A wave just breaking behind us

Why do I put myself through this? How did I end up, at my age, in a little surfer town trying to stand on a far to small board flying on some wave? Should I not be doing something else?
But I guess the point of this trip is to discover new things, to try other stuff away from those that took me down the wrong path.
And once you manage ride one wave, the adrenaline rush is awesome. I don't want to leave. I want to stay here and do it again.
I guess it does help that I met Ashley and a few others here, sharing with people experiences like that, is still better than experiencing it alone.

Another Crazy Bus and Visiting Leon in Nicaragua

2009-10-29T08:55:00.000-07:00

Cathedral of Leon, the largest in Central America

Another quiet street in Central America, low rise buildings, and blue skies

Just when you think that you've seen the strangest thing yet on a bus, that you have met the craziest person, a new experience will bring you to new levels of weirdness or just plain bonkers.

Coming into Nicaragua on a chicken bus, I was amazed to see a man selling pills that help treat bad backs, sore necks, all types of pains...and constipation....how he could connect the two was beyond me.

But the best was yet to come. Once he finished his sale, another older man stood up, and started preaching into an imaginary microphone! He was preaching the word of God, getting more and more into it, his right arm flapping around, as his left hand had to, obviously, hold on to the imaginary microphone.

Once he finished telling us about God, he took out a long coffee filter and started walking up and down the aisle trying to collect money for his mission.

I was stunned...it was the craziest thing I had ever seen.

I was talking to my current room mate, Ashley from Oz, and I felt like an idiot. Now I understand why a lot of people don´t want to do chicken bus......they don´t speak Spanish, doh!!!

So they can´t really get around.

Some do prefer the comfort of the tourist buses or shuttles, but others are just worried about ending up in the wrong place

I am now in Leon, Nicaragua, and it's a really nice colonial town. Not as refurbished and restored as Antigua so it has a much more real feel than Antigua or even Granada.

Another pic of the Cathedral, the light changing rapidly

This is a student town with speakers in the streets pumping out political messages, as the confrontation between the Left and the Right heats up in Nicaragua. Funnily enough, for all the arguments, I have not heard the same level of stupidity that you hear when the Republicans criticise Obama or the Health Care program.

My next project is to get down to San Juan del Sur where Ashley is going to show me, or at least he is going to try to show me, how to surf...

Central America Coming To An End

2009-10-26T17:44:00.000-07:00

The Central American leg of my trip is coming to an end.

I had never planned to come here. I was going to jump straight to South America from Costa Rica after seeing Glenn but then, for several reasons, I ended up staying here for more than two months. People and books had made me paranoid about security, and the issues in Honduras were making me more worried but it turned out to be a lot of scaremonging. Of course you have to keep your wits about you and probably be more careful that in India or South East Asia. Central America is full of great sights, likeTikal, some amazing wildlife, diving, everything, but most of all, what I have really enjoyed is its people.

This lady was amazing, she asked you to try the biscuits she was selling before you bought them......you really don't get that in Tesco
One of the most enduring memories I am going to take with me is the buses, and the madness surrounding the chicken buses.

Yesterday was the only day that I actually saw a chicken being transported in a bus, but everything can happen in one. You may have a clown trying to sing, people selling fruit, drinks, meals. It gets even stranger when people start selling medicines, booklets with old wives tales on how to cure alcohol addiction, smoking and even haemoroids. Throw in some awful music, either reggae, euro trash, or my worst nightmare, Christian Easy listening with off key singers belching out how much they love God.

Some really strange decoration in a hostel I was staying in

Central America is a world of electricty cables hanging on the street, where Pharmacies play blaring music and the first thing they offer you for a sore throat is antibiotics, where people smile at you, and women called you lindo, Where gyms are full of scary people who have lots of tattoos, who will always help you if you just say good morning when you walk in. Sadly it is also a world where deforestation is rampant, where trees are being cut down for the needs of the Western world, or the Chinese never ending thirst for resources. It is a world where sharks are being killed for fins, or just for food. I saw Whale sharks, but I also noticed that there are no fish in the reefs. They have been fished to extinction by desperately poor people who do not understand they are eating away their children's future source of income.
Nevertheless, I would recommend that you all come here......

Sunset in Utila and whale sharks

2009-10-19T17:29:00.000-07:00

Whale Shark

It has been a long time since I could write, but then again I really didn't feel like writing after a little accident on the diving boat

So far things have been absolutely great, well, partly. The day I dived down I almost hit a whale shark, she was 7 metres long, so a great thing see... Then we saw another two. The problem was that a bit later I hit my knee on the boat and it swole up like a football.
It has taken me a few days to get better but I am now in the water again.

Getting to Honduras and the Copan Ruins

2009-10-13T16:46:00.001-07:00

Does it get any better?

I have managed to make my way to Honduras.

For all the problems that the 24 hour news services and Foreign Office tell us, this country is at peace and preparing itself for an election.

Pick ups drive around with loud speakers blaring messages from the different candidates.

But this is not the country that the Foreign Office portrays.

There are no problems, outside Tegucigalpa, and the FO is playing into the hands of the travel insurance companies. My insurance is invalid while I stay here, as the FO has recommended only essential travel take place.

Then again, they did the same while I was in Bangkok fighting with water guns.

But as this is the journey of a lifetime, and I kept reading everywhere that the country was safe, I decided to be brave and I am now in Copan.

Is this what the FO office is scared of?

Copan Ruinas is the home of the Maya ruins of the same name. If you were hoping for the grand pyramids of Tikal you are in for a dissapointment.

Maybe not quite Tikal, but still outstanding

Here temples are smaller and the jungle has been cut down. There is no Indiana Jones feeling, sadly no temples towering over an ever expanding jungle.

Stela A, beautiful just standing there, staring at you

However, one thing Copan offers that you will not find elsewhere is its sculptures, its hieroglyphics, its Stelas.

View from the top of one of the temples

It also has a story to tell that may bring home some of the things we constantly hear about in the news.

Altar G....what can I say, so many bad memories, so many things left behind, hope I am not having to leave people behind for it

As the Copan kindgom grew richer, larger and more populated, it seems that so did deforestation, erosion and water usage...with it came agricultural decimation and floodings...I can't help but think about how many times I have heard those things link together as I have travelled the world.

Do we ever learn?

Macaw at the end of the day, they are so amazing, with their bright red colours

Life changes

2009-10-12T16:41:00.000-07:00

Sanghita, me and a girl we met in Monterico, we had such a laugh, pity my receding forehead is so bloody shiny!!!

My friend John asked me the other day if I felt this trip, which will be coming to an end in just over two months, had changed me. I know I have changed in certain ways and, although I am enjoying travelling, I am looking forward to going home and I know I will be able to adapt perfectly well to a life back in the UK.

Several times I have mentioned that one of the best things about travelling is the people you travel with, the new friends you meet, and obviously seeing some of the old ones who got their ar*es across the world to see me.

My dear Sanghita and I partying in Monterico

Here are two of the great people I have met on my trip, Ignasi and Consuelo

Another friend, Darren, had said that seeing great sights on your own was a disappointment, a bit like reading a great book that no one else had read so you could not discuss it.

On this point I don't agree completely with him - it was worth seeing Tikal, Guatemala or South East Laos on my own. They are great places to visit, and sometimes the fact that you do them on your own adds to the sense of adventure. Especially Laos, where I was the only Westerner.

Nonetheless, as my 21 year old friend from Tasmania said, it is much nicer to do it with someone whom you can share the experience with.

Going back to the original question, one thing that has changed is that I seem to be able to deal with myself in a much better way or, as Ignasi said, I now love myself and my own company enough to cope with not having anyone else around.

I think this has been the greatest change, one that will help me address all those things that were not going well in London at the time I left.

Otherwise I guess I am still the same.

1. My heart warmed today when I saw a demonstration asI was leaving Guatemala, local people demonstrating to protect the environment........

2. I still think David Boreanaz is the very definition of totty.....

and 3. My music taste is still atrocious...I love the Wonder girls!!!!

A few days in Antigua

2009-10-09T10:33:00.000-07:00

I love the way local men and women dress around here, the colourful pants with the white hat

Volcan de Agua, overlooking us menacingly

The very beautiful Iglesia de la Merced, not sure about the red lights they put on the facade, looks a bit like the cheap necklaces Brazilians wear in clubs back at home
I decided to change tactics last week. I felt quite lonely after seeing Remy in Belize and after Sanghita left.

So I decided to forget about staying in hostels for locals, and stick to places for backpackers.

Most locals are there with families and, although they may look at you with certain interest and some amusement, why is a gringo here, they don´t really talk to you.

So back with the youngsters, back to the dorms, and I am loving it, well part of it.

I spent a few days sharing my dorm with five 20 year olds from Norway, who were lovely, thoughtful and polite, we even discussed health care policy. Since then I have had a couple of very loud Israeli girls who needed to be strangled, but I am learning to be calm.

I now even own my first kippah as someone left his behind and the Norwegian girls insisted I kept it...I should check if it could be considered offensive for me to have it.

One of the several lovely squares around the town

I am loving Antigua, so much so that my 3 day stop has now turned into a week.

It is a charming town, really well looked after. But not only that, it is one of the first places I have been to that tourism seems to have lifted everyone, at least partially.

In a country with so many inequalities, with so much poverty, it is a lot less obvious here. I don´t think it is because it is hidden away...the drunks are still there.

Tourism has brought money, and teaching Spanish has spread that money.

Lots of people who stop in the hostel for a day or two do that while they look for a family to live with and learn Spanish.

Of course there is still hardship, privation and suffering, kids working in the street, cleaning shoes, or selling handicrafts, but not anywhere near what you see in other places.

This is obviously my personal opinion and is only based on a few days here so I might be completely wrong.

Hopefully tomorrow I will make my way to Honduras and visit the ruins of Copan before heading off to the beach

Volcan Pacaya...one more done

2009-10-05T09:36:00.001-07:00

Volcano Agua in the distanceVolcan Papaya in the background, lava coming down just behind us, and a line of people coming closer, so they could do their marshmallows

Of late it feels that I am going from one mountain to another, or actually from one volcano to the next.
Sanghita and I went up to Pacaya volcano, the only active one around Antigua and also the only one around which you are almost 100% guarranteed to have lava flowing.
It is fairly impressive to be so close to the lava. At some point you do wonder what type of thrill seeking freaks have we become. What happened with relaxing in front of the telly with a brew. Do I really need to go 2500 metres up and stand a couple of metres away from lava flows that will melt my entire body in seconds, as if I was a vampire exposed to the sun.
We were really lucky with the weather. Most days it seems to rain in the evenings but on this particlar day the clouds were below us, and we got great views of the top of the volcano.
The clouds gave an eerie picture across the different valleys. In the distance we could see Volcan Agua coming through the clouds, beautiful and imposing.
The way back is through the forest in the dark, not the nicest time as I all I could think of were snakes...
I love this pic of the moon coming from behind the volcano

Panajachel and Santa Catarina

2009-10-01T10:39:00.000-07:00

Waiting for the chicken bus

I have spent a couple of days in Panajachel, which is one of the main tourist destinations in Guatemala. Located in the Highlands, it is set next to Lake Atitlan. It is said that this is one of the most beautiful lakes in the world. I am not sure if it is the most beautiful but it is pretty spectacular, with two volcanoes towering on the shore.
Double click on panoramic pìc

Sadly the town has developed a little bit like Benidorm, throw in the touts pestering to sell you boat tickets to cross the lake and you get an idea.
One thing that is different here, than in other places like Thailand and especially India, is that when you say no thanks they tend to leave you alone. They don't try to get you to buy something by wearing you down.
The best thing to do when you are at Lake Atilan is to go to some of the smaller towns, like Santa Catarina, a small village a pick-up away from Panajachel, but a million miles in terms of development.
Church in Santa Catarina

Santa Catarina

If Panajachel is Benidorm, Santa Catarina is a secluded dreamy town on the Amalfi Coast or in Croatia, undamaged by rampant development.
I am now in Antigua and have come here to spend a few days with Sanghita.

The Market of Chichicastemango

2009-09-27T17:18:00.000-07:00

Busy times in the market

God only knows how people can pronounce names in this country, what type of name is Chichicastemango???
After a seven and a half hour journey in two different buses I finally made it to what is commonly knows as Chichi, like my mother's old Chihuahua.
The cemetery was bonkers, all these pastels were just plain odd

The town is famous for two things, its market on Thursday and Sunday, and its adherance to a mixture of Catholicism and old Mayan beliefs.
I managed to catch a procession on Saturday night - before it arrived the street was covered with pine boughs and flowers. Later on, men and women carrying a statue of the Virgin Mary came in front of a chuckkajaue, a local prayer leader, who was swinging a censer with incense inside.
Around this part of the country people are extremely religious and private. Taking pictures of locals is frowned upon and strictly forbidden when visiting the church.

The Sunday Market is a mixed bag. Part tourist attraction but largely where locals come to purchase what they can not find in their villages or to sell their surplus goods. The queues to get into the banks on Sunday mornings are enourmous.

Sanghita came down from Antigua and we spent the day walking around. She is the haggle queen. Sometimes I had to walk out, being embarrased at how low her initial offers were.
But then I realized that prices are so inflated for tourists and that a fair price was always reached. As the traders say, the give a price, but you give yours.
Sanghita haggling, I am hiding away, how could she keep that straight face

Only once were we told to go somewhere else.

Tourists are hassled by women trying to sell them locally made cloth, though sometimes I got the feeling that it was manufactured in some big factory far away in China. It was that feeling you get from Chinese acryllic, 'dont-get-too-close-to-a-naked-flame' type of thing.

Have not managed to work out why they wear the cloth like that on their heads

They all follow the same tricks, like giving you a ridiculous price of one dollar then, when you are interested, deny that they said that and tell you that it was twenty one in the hope that you are too embarrased to walk out.....of course, we were never too embarrassed.

Like in Nepal, men and women carry everything around on their heads or in huge bags that they pull with their heads, which must damage their spines.

A lot sadder to watch is the number of children working and begging. Some work in stalls with their families, others try to sell you bits of this and that, and a lot of small children just ask you for a Queztal. It is sometimes so difficult not to encourage this by giving them something, so we bought some fruit.

All in all, it is a must-see in Guatemala that allows you to get a sense of people's day to day lives.

Tomorrow I am off to visit Atitlan Lake, which is meant to be one of the nicest in this part of the world.

I hope my friends like the big sombreros I bought them, and Mel is getting that dress she asked for a couple of blogs ago.......

The King Marcos Cave

2009-09-25T16:18:00.000-07:00

El Calvario, Chamelco´s church, one of the first in this part of the world

This really is Middle Earth. I know it is an easy joke, but it is so true.

I have not checked the feet of these people but I am absolutely certain they are hobbits.

Guatemalan's are around 60% indigenous, and I swear they make Kylie look tall.No one here reaches my shoulders and sometimes that is a bit inconvinient.

For example, public toilets are an ordeal. They are so small which makes aiming backwards a real challenge. Also, their minibuses, in which they pack too many people anyway, are a killer on my legs. To make matters worse, I have lost my flip flops but here they don't sell size 44 here.

Today I went up from Coban, where I am staying, to a nice Maya Village called Chamelco and then on to see the San Marcos Cave. Coban has got a strange history. Until WWII this was a heavily German town. The Germans had arrived in the 19th Century founding coffee and spice plantations. That all came to an end when the USA got the Guatemalan Government to deport the Germans for supporting the Nazis.I had never heard about this. There are plenty of postwar Nazi refugee stories in South America but I had not heard about them being kicked out during the war.

Chamelco is a nice town, with a very strange market. I was there first thing in the morning and went back later on.
The women arrive with whatever they have to sell, bringing little stools with them, and they sit in lines all the way down the street. As the morning progresses more women arrive, and more lines are created, leaving only minimal space for customers to walk pass. It is fascinating to watch but it also make you realize just how poor some of the indigenous people are.

Pure Guatemala, the crochet tops and the white cowboy hat
Women come to the market, having travelled a few hours to sell a chicken or two, maybe some corn, or just a few tomatoes.

From Chamelco I went on to Rey Marcos Caves, which were only discovered in 1998.The caves are spectacular and what I liked most is that a river runs through them. At one point you have to wade through the river, which is a nice change from other places I have been that are too health and safety conscious.

One of the main caves, with river running at the bottom of the cave
The road to the caves is infested with pot holes, and being market day the mini buses are full so I had to come back on the top of the bus.

They call this the Twin Towers

Tomorrow I am off to Chichicastenango for the Sunday Market.

Tikal, temples and jungle

2009-09-22T14:08:00.000-07:00

View from Temple IV, with the bigger temples coming through the forest

It was nice to spend sometime with Remy, but now I have crossed the border back to Guatemala and I am in Maya Country.
Today I got up extremely early, too early actually, and went up from the town I am staying in, Santa Elena to Tikal.
Tikal are the main Mayan ruins in this country, and one of its main tourist attractions.
I went really early to avoid the hordes of tourists who descend on it, but also cos we are in the rainy season and we are getting torrential rains every afternoon.
Double click to enlarge view from Temple V

I have been to some spectacular human creations, both in this trip and before, and I have also seen some great landscapes. What makes Tikal so special is how Nature and Human work have merged in this amazing site.
Temple of Jaguar, and please not really cute Israeli guy next to me

After the decline of the Mayans the jungle took back what it had once owned and for hundreds of years Tikal was lost. It was not until 1848 that the first scientific expedition was sent.
Grand Plaza

When I first got to the Grand Plaza I thought it was pretty impressive, but the best bit is to climb to the top Temple IV. The forest canopy extends as far as the eye can see, punctured by the top of the highest temples.
Temple V has also a great views, but the stairs are far too steep. I was starting to feel nauseous about walking down when a French guy next to me had a little panic attack, and would not move up or down, which made me snap out of my panic as someone was more scared than me.
Scary Temple V, there were two vultures on the top, probably waiting for one of us to fall down the very steep stairs

Tikal is also great for its wildlife. I managed to see Spider Monkeys, that I had not seen before, and some toucans.
Spider Monkey

It may not be as elaborate as Angor Wat but some of the views are probably the best I have ever seen.

Where Madonna meets Olivia Newton-John

2009-09-19T16:08:00.000-07:00

I am spending a couple of days with my friend Remy in Belize.

This is a strange place. For a country so small, there are so many different kinds of people.

Standing on the pier I kept wondering what language were people speaking. I heard English, Creole, Spanish, and a few using the Maya language, and so for much of the time I had no idea what people were saying.

But I must say, for such diversity they all seem to be fairly well integrated. At the moment they're celebrating their independence from the Motherland, all happy clappy, almost American.

Has the adoption of American Tourism made them that much better?

Well I guess it's better than the days when Mayas were frowned upon. Actually that's not a guess, I know its better. But as a whole is the country better off?

San Pedro is a strange town, there are some cars around but most people drive around on golf carts.

The diving and snorkeling here is quite good, nothing to write home about though, and especially not for the price they charge here.

If you get the chance to dive somewhere else, do just that.

I came here to see Remy, and that has been great. But to see fish, stick to the cheaper islands, the cheaper coast, maybe Honduras.

Planning to head back

2009-09-17T18:49:00.000-07:00

Personal hygene seems to be forgotten when you travel . Sanghita and I saying good bye in the border of Guatemala and Belize, I am jumping on a boat
I keep thinking that I am already on my way back to the UK.
This year long trip is coming to an end.
There are still three months till I head back to Galicia to see my parents.
The other day my friend John asked me if I was going to be able to adapt to live back in the UK after all I had seen and done.
Well, my answer is yes. I am loving this trip, but, at the same time, I am desperate to go back to routine, to work, to a normal life.
I have enjoyed this year more that I have enjoyed any year recently, but I miss my friends, my house, my life. I have enjoyed the sights, the places I have visited, the challenges that have almost killed me. Most of all I have enjoyed the people I have met.
My memories are filled with people like Fabian in Tasmania, Ignasi and Consuelo in Nepal, Charles dealing with India and the Indians, Sanghita annoying me as me crossed Central America, seeing Roberto everywhere in South East Asia, yam, yam!!!
Now I am in Belize City, tomorrow off to San Pedro to see Remy

Independence Day in Central America

2009-09-16T09:52:00.000-07:00

Independe day celebrations, nice, but all buses have to wait for the whole parade to cross, and that was in every town!!!

We have spent the last few days rushing around, crossing borders on my way to Belize.
After spending a day in North Nicaragua, in a town called Esteli we made our way up to the border with Honduras.
All of this can be done on one of the several fleets of international buses, but they are a lot more expensive, up to 5 times more expensive. Besides one thing I got is time, so I get to see the countries I am crossing.
After taking four different buses, two in each country, last night we arrived in Tegucigalpa, the capital of Honduras.
A fairly large, fairly ugly city, nested in a dramatic valley, and with a cooler climate, as it is set about 1000 metres above sea level.
Tegucigalpa Cathedral
Sadly the city is so paranoid about security that everything closes really early, and just after dark you hardly find anything open, not even a place to eat.
I have to wonder how much of this is created by the press, that may push the stories to attack the government, or simply to sell more papers. Yesterday the main article on the paper I had picked up was the shooting of 3 people in the capital.
The town is a bit like Sunnidale without Buffy, overridden by vampires that come out at dark, people lives on gated, chained buildings, scare to come out, in case mugged by gangs.

We are trying to get all the way to the North border with Guatemala tonight, but things here go slowly. And today is Independence Day, so I am certain we will be blocked in our way by parades, demonstrations and parties.

Learning To Cook Pususas

2009-09-12T18:06:00.000-07:00

Grilling my first pususa

Learning how to shape the pancake

I have spent the last couple of days doing things that I've always wanted to do.

Two nights ago I had some savoury pancakes from a street stall, and following my compliments to the chef I was invited to come back the following day to learn how to make them.

I was absolutely thrilled by this, and so were my friends Hieka and Stephan, who also, somehow, invited themselves.

We went to meet Don Ramon, a young father that prepares traditional Salvadorenian pancakes in a store, that doubles up, naturally, as a photocopy shop.

The pancakes are delicious, but the best bit was learning how to make them from scratch, and by that I mean right from how to mill the corn.

Today Sanghita and I went down to Laguna Apoyo, a volcanic laguna in an area that is completely covered by forest, apart from the few bits where bars have been set.

Sanghita with her Orange handbag...how not Northern Irish

It is beautiful and relaxing, except from the thumping Nicaraguan/ Central American / plain awful music played.

Double click on the pic

Chilling, I guess the bars are not that bad, just stop the music

Development no doubt brings its benefits, but some are just not what I would have hoped for...

It has been so nice to meet all three of them, and now that it's just the two of us left I think I'll get upset when we go our seperate ways once we get to Managua.

I thought it was a funny pic of Stephan

Masaya and poverty

2009-09-10T17:02:00.000-07:00

Masaya Crater
Double click on the pic

Today we saw another part of Nicaragua, the not so pretty one, away from the restored colonial glories of Granada and the tranquility of Ometepe.
Last night Sangita and I bumped into Heika and Stephan, the couple I had climbed the volcano with and we arranged to go down to Masaya for the day.
Me and the kids
Masaya is famous for two things, its markets and the volcano.
After a 45 minute ride in a bus we got to the town and hailed a cab to the volcano. It is not a trekking area, as you would only be able to walk on the road.
Once you get there it is spectacular, especially if you had never seen a proper active volcano crater before. When I got to the top of Concepcion it had been covered with clouds.
It is how I imagine Mars to be, the gases are overwhelming. It is like a Jules Verne novel.
Back in town, Masaya's markets, both the tourist market and the local one, are just mostly full of tat. I don't think this area is actually good for handicrafts.
This is the dress you buy your daughter to have nightmares
But some of it was upsetting. Turtles disecadas holding ashtrays or dried frogs holding small bottles of rum.
What has your wife done to deserve this? It is officially the worst dress in the world
Poverty is rife in this part of the world. Sangita and I ate in the market and when we had almost finished a kid approached us. He wanted us to leave him some food. We stayed behind to ensure that the plate was not taken from him by the people running the market restaurant.
It is so depressing to see these kids, their childhood drifting away, lost in this misery. There is no hope for any of them, yet he still thanked us for the food, and kept part of the chicken to take to his friend, a smaller kid standing a bit behind.
I got really upset in the tourist market. A mother stood in the blazing heat begging. In her arms a kid. The child, around 5 or 6, suffered from 'waterhead', not sure what the name of the deformation is. His head was deformed, maybe three times its size.
She played on our guilt, but what else could she do.
Masaya Bus Terminal

Leaving the town from the main bus terminal I kept thinking of India, everywhere was full of rubbish, the street vendors, the conductors shouting their destinations. Will this country be able to offer anything comparable to the immense human potentional of India?

The Two Granadas

2009-09-09T16:54:00.000-07:00

Granada Cathedral

The other side of Granada, the town market
There are two very different Granadas.
There is the rehabilitated, rebuilt, retouched and re-everything, that is beautiful and charming.
And there is the real Granada, the one of its buzzing market, full of life, but also of dodgy characters, touting black market currency or indeed any black market you want.
It is fascinating to stand and hear every vendor shout about their product, from eggs to tomatoes, from bleach to frijoles, poison to kill dogs, rats, or even your wife......

I can´t remember what this lady was selling, or if she was just sitting there letting the day pass, but she was really flattered that I took a pic of her.
There is such a contrast between the manicured and extremely beautiful old town, with its vibrant colours, cathedral, churches and restaurants, bars and spas, and the run down Market Municipal, just so full of life and decay.
Nicaragua has proven to be everything I had heard.
It is beautiful and green, it is dodgy without being dangerous. It is a bit like India, and I am loving it.

It is really sad to see these girls having to work in the Bus Station as street vendors, what has happened to the Sandinista revolution and their push for education?
Of course, at some point, I will kill a tout, especially the stupid one that keeps hassling me to fix my shoes in his stall...I am wearing frekking sandals!!!!

I have met a really nice Indian girl from Belgium and we have been hanging out together. Sadly, her room was broken into last night and she was not happy. She's funny, though I think she missed the page in the guides about dressing modestly....

Climbing Volcan Concepcion

2009-09-07T07:48:00.000-07:00

View from the Top of Concepcion, where is the lift to get down???

Why, why, why???
After leaving Rivas I have come down to Ometepe, an island in the middle of Lake Nicaragua. This island is magnificent, adventure movie country. You can easily imagine Indiana Jones or King Kong being filmed here.
The island was created by two volcanoes rising in the middle of the lake and eventually joining up.
Concepcion, the largest of the two, dominates the island, sometimes menacing, sometimes just stunning.
I had always wanted to go to see the crater of a volcano and, this being Nicaragua, they allow you to do just that.
View from the door of my hostel..
Although I am a bit mad I decided I had to go with a guide, though there are no controls at the entrance to stop you taking on the 1610 metre mountain on your own.
The walk starts through dense forest, on a steep climb from sea level.
The humid heat is sticky, and I sweated like never before, there were rivers of it.
The morning had been cloudy, but when at around 10.30 we got to the tree line the clouds had vanished and we were greeted with a beautiful view over the lake.
Before things got hard with Heike and our guide Erik

The tree line is at around 1000 metres. Everytime trees try to go higher the volcano explodes and the ash burns everything. There are small trees burnt from the last explosion 7 months ago.
From there onwards the trek, which I thought had been hard, turned into hell.
The mountain is so steep, the rocks are loose, and most of the time I crawled on all fours to avoid falling backwards.
My two fellow trekkers and the guide were well ahead of me. The words of Frank Sinatra keep coming back to me, had I bitten off more that I could chew.
We were very lucky that clouds only covered our path from time to time. Climbing with complete cloud cover would not have been nice, especially if you add the howling from the howler monkeys down in the forrest being transported by the wind.

Evnetually we got to the top, though we didn't stay there long. The gases are strong, make you sleepy, and there are some irritating bugs that drive you potty.
On the top of the volcano, covered with clouds and gases, get me out!!!

If I thought that going up had been difficult, down drove me insane. The going was hard, challenging, but got your adrenaline and you heart pounding.
Coming down was infurating as, everytime I put my foot down, the rocks crumbled. I fall on my fat ar*e several times, scratched my hands, and on one accasion shouted a very loud 'Cono!!!' that was heard at the bottom of the volcano by another group.
To make matters worse I ran out of water at the top with 4 hours still to go. Probably one of my worse nightmares......
Thankfully, the couple that were trekking with us, Heika and Stephan were able to spare some water.
Howler monkey with baby that we found on the way down

Funnily enough, by the time I got down, I had already forgotten how tough it had been and was thinking about my next big trek. But I have learnt a lesson, and eaten a lot of humble pie.

Today I am going to do sweet FA as my legs are killing me

Step Back In Time

2009-09-04T07:48:00.000-07:00

Little barber´s shop

Playing dominoes by the entrance of my hostel

I hate border towns. They are always full of dodgy characters and, after my bad experience in Poipet in Cambodia, I am always wary of these crossings.

However, I have also have become a lot more savvy and don't fall for their tricks anymore, from selling you arrival cards to trading currency.

I think I may have fallen to one trick though. I had to give the Nicaraguan border official seven dollars but only got a receipt for five. I guess I am not that savvy. Then again, what was I going to do, throw a little strop????

I loved this lawyer´s office, everything from the flowers to the rocking chairs

I am now in a town called Rivas by Lake Nicaragua and tomorrow I am planning to get to the Isle of Omepete, an island in the middle of the lake, the result of two volcanoes joining. I am going there to do some trekking.

If I thought Liberia was laid back and chilled, this place is a step back in time. With horse drawn carriages and everyone spending the afternoon in their rocking chairs, you have to wonder how anything ever gets done...then again it is so hot.

So far I am liking this country, except the one thing that has irritated me since I got here. They do garbage disposal the Indian way: everything is thrown out the window -it could be a tin, a cup or even a frekking plastic dish with half a portion of rice and beans.......

I have read a lot about Ometepe and my friend Carles has been there, so I am very excited.

The sleepy town in Liberia

2009-09-03T08:00:00.000-07:00

Sunset in Liberia by Calle Real

Really famous house in Calle Real, they have covered the walls with newspapers, but could not work out why

I am in a little sleepy town called Liberia, around 50 kilometres from the border in Nicaragua.

This is much more what I was expecting from a town in Costa Rica.

The people are friendlier and they just let time pass them by while sitting in the park. It is a place where the shop staff calls you 'mi amo' with that overly camp accent they have.

At night, instead of hiding behind gates and secure entrances, they sit outside their houses, as the street is much cooler and the heat inside is now unbearable.

It seems that as Glenn left the rainy season ended.

Feeling lonely

2009-09-01T15:42:00.000-07:00

The story repeats itself, it is great to have friends coming to see you, I love catching up with them. However, when they leave you feel lonely and you start wishing that the trip comes to an end. I learned a lesson the last time it happened, when Stephen left.
The best thing to do is to plan something really exciting, something to look forward to.
So I have been doing just that.
I have decided to go up to Belize, which was not in my plans, to see a friend, Remy, who is going to be there for a week. Belize is far too expensive so I will only spend a few days there.
I am also looking at my next diving trip and have found Bay Islands in Honduras, the cheapest place in the Caribbean...so I will be going there sometime late in September after seeing Remy.
Travelling is great, you do get to see the most amazing sites, you do get to meet people, experience things, but it does get lonely from time to time...
Tomorrow I am starting to make my way towards Nicaragua and have decided to break the trip by stopping in Liberia, a little town near the border that is meant to have a beautiful Old Town...hopefully better than San Jose.
I am sorry to say, but this town is a bit of a sh*t hole....
It is ugly, polluted, and people keep telling me to be really careful........which is nice of them, but it does not give a good impression of the town.

This is not Malaga with iguanas

2009-08-29T19:27:00.000-07:00

My first ever sloth, climbing up a tree. Scary caiman, well you can see his eyes, I almost throw Glenn on him to see if it bites

Double click on pic to see a full view of beach 3 ( original name )

Masked frog, or something like that, I just thought it was really cute

I am not sure how I feel about Manuel Antonio and its National Park.Manuel Antonio NP is the second smallest National Park in Costa Rica, but also its second most visited.Even during the rainy season it felt crowded and we could not help but notice that its animals were not as scared of humans as they were in other parts of the country.The park has just around 500 square ha, but the number of visitors is so high that during high season they are limited to 600 at any point in time during the day.Manuel Antonio and another couple of parks pay for the upkeep of all the other parks in Costa Rica.Nonetheless it's a great park, with a beautiful forest teeming with wildlife, and a stunning beach, filled with palm trees bent in impossible angles.

Black iguanaThis is the place to come and see all those animals that you heard about, and tried to see in other parts of the country, but who are normally too rare or shy.In our three hours we managed to get close to sloths, a first for me, white faced monkeys, and an endless parade of iguanas, caimans, frogs and really loud howler monkeys.

White face monkey staring at meAre these animals paying for the upkeep of other wildlife? Do they suffer stress due do the excesses of a booming tourist industry?I don't know if the animals are stressed.Yes, there is a lot of noise, and the animals can't avoid it.However, this area has not suffered the excesses of other parts of the world. This is not Malaga with frogs and caimans.

It should make this country proud, and bring shame to my parent's country, that here they have maintained a level of protection and environmental standards that most of the Spanish or Italian coast could only wish for.

Flying above the canopy

2009-08-27T19:26:00.000-07:00

Zipping above the canopy

Couple of hummng birds on a feeder
I have said before that the way to beat your fears is to face them, and before me some wise man said that brave is not the man with no fears but the one that beats them, I think it was Indiana Jones.
So today we decided to do some zipping and some canopy walking.
However, before we did all of that we went up to Santa Elena Natural Reserve very near Monteverde.
Santa Elena was set in 1977 to protect some cloud forest that was at risk of being chopped and to revert to nature parts of the forest that had already been cut. It seems that at that altitude cattle farming was not that successful and several schools were able to raise money to protect this unique environment.

Double click in the pic
The forest is at its highest point in the area and on one side faces the winds from the Pacific and on the other winds from the Caribbean. It is a great place to spend a few hours walking around, but in most cases all you will get to see are some birds and insects, but still very enjoyable.
So after our morning walk, we went for our adrenaline kick.
Zipping is, put simply, launching yourself from one platform to another by a cable, travelling at a fairly high speed, either above the forest canopy or through the trees.
When it got to the time that I had to throw myself from a 19 metres platform, panic struck and I desperately looked for excuses to get out. However, with two girls behind me, I eventually let the guide attach me to the cable and launch me into the abyss.

It is an amazing experience and, once you start to relax, you start to enjoy the view as it flies past.
This is not a wildlife watching experience, everything goes so fast that you could not see a pink elephant if it was flying by your side, but nonetheless it helps protect this area. Would you be willing to do it over Croydon?
I loved it.
The final one is over 1 Kilometre long and they send two people together to ensure there is enough weight to achieve the required speed, so with my legs strapped beside Glenn we travelled the distance 50 metres above the canopy.
To finish it off we had a little tarzan moment

More Eye-lash snakes and volcanos

2009-08-26T19:01:00.000-07:00

Another eye-lash viper that we came across today, cançt believe I didnçt panic as they are highly poisonous

Iguanas resting on a tree, some size for the male one
Emmerald Bassilisk, he just looks odd

In the last couple of days we have been trekking around the Arenal Area. Actually we did spent one morning on a safari raft that gave us the chance to relax and see some of the wildlife that lives by the river side.
Although Costa Rica seems to be a country that has managed to protect part of its environment pressures on it are very present.
Rafting down the river our guide not only pointed out the wildlife we saw, but also several of the issues that were already apparent.
To avoid erosion and flash floods river sides need to be forested, or so says the law. It is a law that makes complete sense, strong trees bond together the soil avoiding it being wash away everytime the river rises.
However, farming has led to a lot of this trees been cut. Rivers have become wider as flash floods have made the river sides collapsed. Sadly, for what we heard, most of this has been led by the big corportations that have been established in Costa Rica for a while and have turned this country into the main producer of tropical fruits such as pineapple.
In this case not only the environment suffers, but all the small businesses that have made a living out of tourism.

Bat having a nap by the river
Costa Rica's tourism is not only about visiting the large national parks, but also a lot of smaller enterprises that will provide services like the safari raft we took, or the small farm where we stopped for a coffee.
Nonetheless we got to see lots of things, probably more than in the jungle, as birds and animals are less shy and live on the open.
Highlights of the day were the cocodrile, tucan and the emeral bassilisk.
We were also told that there was a snake by the side, so against my wishes we got closer. When we could not see it, we were told we were looking in the wrong place. It was not in the river side, but hanging on top of us on a tree...
On the afternoon we visited Arenal Volcano, one of the few active volcanos in Costa Rica.
Now, I don't want to be critical, but how did everyone missed that it was a volcano until it exploded in 1968 destroying several villages.
It had the perfect volcano cone shape, there were hot springs around it, that got hotter as the explossion got nearer, and somehow people thought it was a normal mountain, doh!!!!
Since then it has been converted into a major tourist attraction. Until 2000 you could get to the top, but several people got fried following another explosion, nothing strange as it explodes constantly, we saw a small one.

Arenal Volcano after a little lava explosion with the rocks coming down the side
We have now moved to another part of the country, Monteverde, the activity capital of the country, to come and do some trekking on cloud forest, and some canopy walking, and worse, some zipping!!!
May God protect us!!!

Rara Avis, spiders and other thrills

2009-08-24T21:29:00.001-07:00

Ocati looking around for some lunch...

Rara Avis, Nun's Torments and other wildlife.....

Since I started this trip I have been looking forward to traveling to Costa Rica and especially to its National Parks and other protected areas. Everyone told me how much I was going to enjoy it, just the type of place where the environment and its wildlife were protected having become the main source of foreign currency.

However, I was also very aware of previous disappointments, places that friends and travel guides had described as awesome, teeming with wildlife. Places like North Laos that have been raised to the ground, where all forest has been supplanted by rubber trees.

So far Costa Rica is living up to all my expectations. From what I can see, and have learned, the 30% that is protected seems to be properly protected with just some minor problems in a few remote areas. Although deforestation and agriculture is expanding through the country large swathes are still havens for wildlife.

Vultures waiting for us to fall down some cliff

As soon as Glenn got here we left San Jose and headed to Rara Avis, a privately owned Natural Reserve on the border of Braulio Carrillo National Park. This is the second largest expanse of rainforest in Costa Rica, and the park has mostly been left untouched with no tourism to protect its wildlife.

Rara Avis sits on the side of the park at a high point and it is an adventure on its own to get there. The bus from San Jose is followed by a two and half hour tractor trip uphill on a track that goes from bad road, to dirt track, to a series of pot holes in which the tractor sank from time to time, followed by us in the trailer behind.

A cute spider

The last 3 kilometres had to be trekked as the path was so badly damaged by the rain that you get thrown around too much.

Rara Avis is one of those rare places where the environment and economics seem to have met, without becoming so expensive to become prohibitive to the normal person.

We have spent the last three days trekking around the reserve, mostly with guides. As always in the rainforest you don't get to see much. There are no jaguars waiting there for you, and most of the animals, birds and butterflies you see are so rude, never happy to wait for you to get the camera out and focus on them. Most don't even bother coming out during the day, just no manners. We did get to see several gorgeous butterflies, some poisonous frogs, red and bright, and pacas, a type of rodent that grows up to half a metre.

Waterfall by Rara Avis

I am proud to say that I saw a snake, a poisonous one, and didn't have a scooby doo moment, there was no screaming, no running, no throwing my friend in the way of the snake.

The staff that work or volunteer in the station are mostly locals who have been employed to ensure the wealth that tourism brings is spread to the community, bringing new allies to their cause. There are also a couple of Americans, one a volunteer to help with the English speaking customers.

Glenn losing badly

We will take with us the memories of cheap thrills, and cheap jokes. I love the Spanish nickname for the Black Palm, locally known as Nun's Torment, its roots looking like dildos...

And a Tarzan moment...

On leaving Rara Avis, we still had to walk the first three kilometres, and were then offered horses instead of the tractor. Horses, being more intelligent that people, refuse to go all the way up there.

Once we were a bit more comfortable on the horses we decided to trot, the slow walk was sending us to sleep and the rain was falling hard. We even managed to gallop for a bit. I have now decided that I am going to have to learn to do this properly.......my horse upset me by always veering to the right, as if if it was a Tory....

I really enjoyed the horse ride. It must have been funny to see us trying to keep our cool, trying to look like Indiana Jones, while each time the horse sped up our eyes jumped out of their sockets with sheer fear. Nonetheless my stomach hurts from how much I laughed.

Is Viagra the new Aspirin

2009-08-21T13:22:00.000-07:00

Not a great pic but I was just shocked to see this

I have been amazed to see in the last few months the reach of Viagra.
When I left Europe legal Viagra was something you got with a prescription for your GP ( Doctor )
Now I have seen everything, I have even seen pharmacies doing promotions on Viagra.
In Australia there were advertisments on the road for it. In the USA they had TV advertisments, even before watershed. For the non-brits that may read this, that means on hours that children may be watching telly. The add had an older man riding a huge motorbike. With him in the bike there was a younger woman with a satisfied, ever so dazziling smile.

Now, I got to Costa Rica, and I have found that they do offers, buy more and you get a discount, it is like buying chicken breast....

Roberto is an idi*t!!!

2009-08-19T13:31:00.000-07:00

Could not help myself and walked to get the pic

I hated LA, so ended up staying longer that I wanted.

This may have sounded odd. I went down to the airport, not an easy task on this 'public transport hating' city. As I was trying to check in they could not find me in their system, so I was starting to worried that the portal I had used, Orbitz.com, of which I had never heard in my life could have been a dodgy one.

Anyway, as I presented the paperwork the lady on the counter started giggling, pointing out the fact that I was not due to catch my plane for another 24 hours. Ashamed I turned back and face the public transport again.

I dislike this city for several reasons, it is the opposite than San Fran or New York. It is so wide, just endless suburbs with shopping malls, people driving everywhere. There is little public transport, most of it empty, just a few old people and the ever present nutter.

And then you get to Hollywood, hackers selling tours to go and see the sights, ie the houses where celebrities live, or crimes have been committed. Obviously you go in big cars with open roofs.

Do they call this art and a famous sight...I just think is tatIn the other hand, I like Chinatown, found amusing that I had never had heard about Chiang Kia Sek, and in less than two weeks I see him seating in two opposite sides of the world.

I am hoping that tonight I will manage to get on a plane

Marines, Moonshine and other scary things

2009-08-17T21:23:00.000-07:00

If I thought Barb and Bill in the Outback where from a different world, I don't know how I should describe the US Marines I have been hanging out with in the last few days.

Joanna and Rich live very near one of the biggest bases in the USA so several of their neighbours are in the Forces.

My first taste of what was to come was when we walked into a store that sold combat stuff, but could also be used for trekking, for example microfibre towels.

I was approached by a member of staff and asked if I needed any help. I told him that I was looking for a lock having lost mine.

His next question caught me completely unprepared, is that for your gun? I initially looked at him like he was taking the pi*s. Eventually I realised that I was standing in a store that was all about guns and their paraphernalia, for example infra red torches for $600.

On the same night I had my first encounter wtih Shaune, Jeff and Jeremy. Shaune and Jeremy are on the Forces, Jeff is a civilian.

They are all completely obsessed with their constitutional rights to bear arms. They are also completely convinced that almost everything wrong with their country is due to the government, and the rest is due to all of those 'frakking lazy inmigrants to come to this country to rob us'.

Christine, Shaune's girlfriend, provided some home made moonshine that loosened our tongues even more.

Shaune really freaked me out when he asked me to go with him to his flat to show me some pics of him in full combat gear, mask and huge automatic rifle...just his private gear at home.

They are not republicans, as they did not waste anytime in criticising the way Bush robbed Al Gore of his victory They are libertarians, but for me they are actually just a sign of how much America seems to be splitting apart.

It's not only them. The whole country seems to almost be at war with itself.

As Obama tries to pass his healthcare legislation the Republicans are in a campaign that will say just about anything against it. I know that except for a couple of freaks in the right wing press in the UK we never go this far.

The two nights I spent drinking with these guys were absolutely fascinating. It has been an eye opener just seeing how far away some people are from us.

Having spent a while away from Europe, I have come to appreciate more and more what we have.

San Diego, Dik Dik and other animals

2009-08-16T17:21:00.001-07:00

Hyacinth Macaw

Having a beer with Jo

It has been great to meet up with Joanna, as I had not seen her for over 6 years.

She is currently living in Oceanside, about 35 kilometres from San Diego.

One of the main attractions around here is the Wild Animal Park which has become quite famous for it's conservation work, having achieved a lot of success with the highly endangered condor.

The park is set on a dry valley inland and therefore a lot hotter than Oceanside. Driving there and everywhere else you are shocked by the amount of cars that seem to be constantly on the road. But there is very little you can do here without a car, to even go to the supermarket you need to drive. The high street seems to have died and is now just a few places to eat, a dry cleaners and a cinema.

Dik Dik, quite an amusing name

The park itself is quite large and you could easily spend the whole day walking from one part to the other, learning about these animals. Also about some of the damage we have done to the planet. The park has two of the eight Northern Rhinos left in the world, sadly their female is barren. Probably in the next few years this animal will become extinct.

Markets of Taipei

2009-08-13T17:14:00.000-07:00

Chinese sausages in Taipei

This little stall cooks the food in front of you, maybe not the Ivy but delicious
I am starting to wonder how people in Taipei are not a lot fatter than they seem to be.
For what I gather people don't really go to restaurants or bars in the evenings, but walk around the tens of night markets they have here. And the food there is all fried, lots of great, 'heart attacks on the making' snacks.
These markets are not for tourists, as they hardly have any tourist, compare to other towns in Asia.
They normally mix food with other things. Mostly the other things are a tat galore, it is like QVC in the street...I actually saw several things that could have been QVC bestsellers, and as an old employee I know what I am talking about.
My first night market was the main one, Shiling. The food area is a near the MRT station, and it is all I was expecting. Lots of things I didn't know, all far too fattening and unhealthy, and all really tasty.
I had something that look like a big dumpling, that had been deep fat fried at a low temperature, it was kind of jelly with meat inside and left in the oil...it was fatty, oily, nonetheless tasty and delicious.
I also had some breaded 'thing' only because everyone was queueing to get one, so I decided I had to try it...long queue, worth the wait.
However, the non food market was a dissapointment. It was tat heaven, from Kalvin Clein underwear to 'I did it with Kylie' T Shirts, fake sunglasses, mixed with real Puma store.
It is true that is a market for locals, although I may have seen more tourist there than anywhere else, it was still less than 5 or 10%, there are so few tourist in this country.
My second market, Huaxi Night Market, was a strange discovery. A lot more local, smaller, and with a sleazy side to it...somehow I managed to discover the prostitues that work in a dark ally on one of the sides of the market. I know I have always have an ability to find the gutter, either the drunks in India or the brothel in Chang Mai where I went to upload my blog.

A dark ally in Taipei
As soon as they discover that I was not going to be a customer, and I just wanted to take a pic, they all run from me. Prositution is very frown upon in this country. There is shame on it as oppose to what you see in Thailand. I think this is probably good, sad for the people that work on it, but probably a deterrent for people to fall on it if they just see it as an easy exit.

Museums and Jade Cabagges in Taipei

2009-08-11T03:45:00.000-07:00

Temple of Confucious...

These are my last few days in Asia, and I could not have chosen a better country to finish with after having started in India.

Taiwan and India are absolute opposites in this world. If India is intrusive, invasive, in your face, almost abusive, Taiwan is gentle and friendly. Not only that, somehow their development seems to have been different. India seems to have developed despite their ability to organize themselves, the corruption. You can't build tall buildings in India because you are not sure they will have electricty to run their lifts. Taiwan on the other hand has Breast Feeding rooms in their Underground stations.

Women in India would not even dare to go in there, knowing men would run in to see their t*its out.

Today I visited the National Palace Museum. It is absolutely magnificent. 8000 years of Chinese history in one building. It was taken from the mainland, after the revolution, for 'safekeeping'. Nonetheless some may call it stealing. You get a sense of humbleness walking around the museum.

One of the most amazing pieces in the museum, at least from my point of view, it is this little piece of centuries old woodwork, in which an artist carved a boat with 8 people inside, and a poem written in the back, and it's only 3 centimetres long and 1 wide. Sometimes you do realize that in the Western world we're not ahead of everything at all times.

Nonetheless, and following what I mentioned before, I was surprised to see that the piece everyone else was mostly excited about was a little jade cabbage!!!!!

Although it was pretty, why there was a queue to see it was beyond me!!!!

I also visited Confucious' Temple. As he's meant to be one of the wisest men ever in Chinese culture, I decided to pop by to see if I could absorbe any of that knowledge.

Taiwan, Typhoons and Taste

2009-08-10T03:58:00.000-07:00

I was glad to leave Australia.

I did like it, but God it's expensive, and they charge you for everything. It really killed my budget.

It was so nice to get to Kuala Lumpur where I had a great meal for less than a pound.

On my only night there, staying around Chinatown, I ended up drinking with some local Chinese. It was a great experience, though my head seriously hurt the day after as they drink some evil liquor, that I'm sure is nothing more than petrol.

Although Malaysia seems to be able to keep their three communities Malay, Chinese and Indian, together well, my drinking partners were very suspicious of the Indians, and told me to be very careful of them. Then again, I guess my parents would say the same about people that are different to them.

I have been very lucky and managed to miss Typhoon Morakot, that hit Taiwan just before I arrived yesterday. It has been the worse storm in 50 years.

However, can you imagine going up to the top of Taipei 101, the tallest building in the world, in the middle of that storm? It would have been awe inspiring.
View of Taipei 101 from below

Somehow Taiwan feels like the most foreign place I have been since I began this trip, or at least when you first arrive it feels like that. It is a bit like Moscow, as all the signs are in Chinese, so you can't even tell where you are, where is the hostel etc. The only concession to the Westerners is in the Underground where the names are in both Chinese and Western.

I was surprised to learn that a country so small as this is the 14th biggest economy in the world, but once you get here you can see why. The country is so modern and high tech. At the same time it still has it's charm, the little corner stalls where people come to eat their lunch etc, very similar to Thailand. However, they are so organized. They are what the English used to be. They queue for everything, and they do it properly. To get on the train, to get on the bus...

I also visited the Memorial to Chiang Kai Sek. Some people call it impressive. I don't know, it felt more like imposing and a bit OTT. Sometimes you do feel that for all the modernity that Asia has achieved, taste has been left behind.

Memorial to Chiang Kai Sek, the Father of the country
The Father himself

Not that I can really talk.

I can't wait till I get to the night markets and see a completely different side

Queen Victoria Market

2009-08-06T22:06:00.000-07:00

Barb, Bill and myself in Menindee station

I was sad to leave behind Barb and Bill, and the clean air and healthy living of the Outback. As soon as I got to Sydney I got hideously drunk with Damien's cousin and really regret it in the morning.After a week of health, health, health, I manage to ingest my body weight on alcohol and waste all my good work.One great thing of only having one train a week is that with a bit of luck you will catch the train with the same caracthers that have enterntain you on your way out.Most of my favourites were there, the stretching lesbians, the old couple with the strange hobby. However, someone really threw me out. A young woman in her late 20's travelled all the way down to Sydney, and at around 6PM when it was dark outside, open her bag and got her dressing gown out...and it was bright acid blue with pink flowers!!!!Anyway, did make it down to Melbourne to catch my flight to KL.One thing I had not done on my previous visits here was to go to Queen Victoria Market, the largest market in the Southern Hemisphere.I have to say, I was pleasantely surprised with it. It reminded me of the nice markets of Barcelona. As oppose to Borough Market in London this is not a posh market, or at least not just that.One thing I noticed is that while most customers looked like the typical Ozzy the people working there weren't. Lots of Asian people, and then quite a few Italian, Greek, Hispanic looking.

Well I am now off to Kuala for one day before making my up to Taiwan...it is going to be so nice to put away my winter clothes, and back on the shorts

A Wwooffer In Bindara

2009-08-04T06:18:00.000-07:00

A little bit of water brings out all the wild flowers

My experience working in the Outback has been a great one. Its only drawback is that it's so isolated that without a car I didn't actually get to see more of the area. However, I was really after an experience of the life there, and that's what i got.

Double click on pic...

I could not have asked for better hosts than Barb and Bill. For all their quirky eccentricities, their deeply rooted distrust of foreign people, city people, Government, and more, they have been some of the most welcoming and friendly people I have ever come across.

I can now begin to understand what my friend Natalie finds so soothing about her allotment and the time spent there alone, working on it. I have enjoyed everything I have done, from the vegetable garden, to driving the mini tractor, from fruit picking to looking after the solar panels.

Driving the tractor with Bindi, Santa's little helper, on board...

I think I have missed working. As mad as this may sound, six months on a constant holiday can become a bit tiresome.

However, I am not thinking, even in the slightest, about moving to a place like this. It is remote beyond my worst nightmares, even getting to somewhere on your day off is a task that needs serious planning.

I got up early in the morning on Saturday and crossed the river in the canoe. I knew, after talking to Charles and Barb where the road was, just 2 kilometres to the East of the river, so easy to find with the help of the sun. But I think I headed too much to the North, though eventually I managed to get to the road.

The road TO nowhere FROM nowhere...

Somehow I had this idea that I would see some traffic on this half sealed road, and someone would pick me up and just drop me conveniently in Menindee, 50 kilometres from the farm. After an hour's walking I realized that not one single car had driven by, and that it soon dawned on me that I was in the frakking middle of nowhere...I thought Attepeu, in Laos, had been isolated...this goes beyond anything I have ever experienced, though in this case I thankfully didn't have, as in Laos, the pervy landlady trying to get in my pants.

So I decided to head back to the farm. Sadly, by this time, the sun was not in the same place, and I got lost for a wee while. Not completely lost, as I had found the Darling, so Bindara on the Darling, the farm, could not be that far...But every river bend looked the same than the one before, every tree did too, so after walking down river for a while, I walked all the way back and then walked further on. Then, when once again I realised I was on the wrong path, I turned around, un-walked what I had just walked, and walked further downstream.

Eventually after three hours of ever increasing circles I managed to find Bindara. By that time I had saved a stupid sheep that had fallen down a hole, and was digging herself further into it.

I have decided sheep are not very bright.

Bindara cemetery. The climate is so dry there are stones from 1837 in which you can still read the markings...

Sunday was not meant to be a day off, something odd that also has to do with the fact that Barb and Bill are 7th Day Adventists. So, although they were away, I still got up early ready to do some work with Charles. A couple of issues with machinery later and we ended up with nothing to do for the day, so I just sat and relaxed with my book and a coffee, enjoying the sunshine. Gusts of cool wind reminded us that spring was yet to come. Nonetheless, it was this fact, that spring had not arrived yet, that allowed me, in my head, to walk freely around the farm, enjoying the sight of emus, kangaroos, parrots, but at the same time knowing that snakes were hibernating.

Bindara homestead built in 1895

Bindara serves as campsite for caravans, tents, and they even have some small cottages, giving the family an extra income stream during these hard times, as the persistent drought does not allow for a lot of animals to live off the land. After having spent months with people that have been considerably younger than myself, I have suddenly found myself spending a week with people well above my age, not just the people living on the farm, but all their customers.

Barb and Charles preparing breakfast by the camp fire

Wwoofing in Australia

2009-07-31T07:01:00.000-07:00

Train journeys can be quite enterntaining. Once you have resigned yourself to the long day ahead you can start enjoying the views outside, and, even more interestingly, the views inside the train, the human zoo.

My 13 hour train journey to Menindee proved to be one of these trips.

It was a really early start, leaving at 6.20am, with 12 long hours to look forward to.

Australian trains are fairly comfortable, and not used by the public very much. The expansion of Virgin Blue or Jet Star has killed what was left of it, and now most people fly. However the little town I was heading to didnt have an airport, so the train was the logical solution.

On our way I managed to see some great landscapes, rugged mountains, eucaliptus forests, and the normally dry plains of the Outback, but as it had just rained they were covered in a carpet of lush green.

Inside the train it was even more interesting in terms of people watching. A lot of elderly people seemed to travel on this train, their traveling heavily discounted.

The couple behind me were just plain odd. He was making notes of each time we passed a kilometer sign and a half kilometer sign, so thats lots and lots of notes this being an 850km journey. His intention was to calculate the speed of the train at each time. His friend, this old dear, had the highest pitch voice I have ever come across, sounding more like a 5 year old child than someone near 70, though she clearly had her wits about her.

Obviously Australians being as they are, everyone had to come and enquiry about the gentleman's strange hobby.

There was a group of short haired, larger than average arse, fleece wearing lesbians, that every so often got off the train and started to do stretches on the platforms, as if they were on a long haul flight and were worried about the pressure.

Things went fine til I got to Menindee and found no one was waiting for me...panic was about to strike as I was in the middle of nowhere, and I didn't have my hosts number...

But eventually Barb came to pick me up and we drove the 50K to the farm.

There was a time that the farm, then called Netley Station, extended over 1 million acres, had 100,000 sheep, and cows and horses on top of that...I can't even imagine the size of this.

The farm was then split into several parts, and Bill and Barb bought Bindara in 1980. The drought has meant that they have had to get rid of most of their animals and there are only 25 cattle and 20 sheep or something like that left. They seem to have found a good source of income with eco tourism, as they have people staying in the cottages at the back of the farm, plus caravans and campers.

So far this thing of woofing has been good, I get up early, have some breakfast, work for a few hours in the vegetable garden, lunch, then work for a few more hours and then enjoy the end of the day with a walk.

If Barb and Bill were from Mars we may have had more things in common. They are a deeply Christian, Labour hating family, with a natural misstrust of anything that comes from the Government or the big cities. Nonetheless, as far as it goes I am enjoying my time here. They are extremely welcoming, friendly, and I am learning about a way of life that I am amazed to discover still exists.

Let's see what happens over the next few days.

Campervan Vs Camp-ette

2009-07-24T00:36:00.000-07:00

So typical of Oz, had people been shooting at the sign?

My campervan turned up to be more a camp-ette, a little van that could take only two people.

Aussies are obssesed with health and safety, so campervans are only allowed to carry people at the front, to ensure they have a seat belt, and mine was so small that it only could carry me and one other person...

Anyway, this time I didn't pick up any hitch hikers, and so ended up doing the almost 900 km on my own. Sadly, I was let down by the relocation company. I was meant to have the van for 2.5 days that would have allowed me to visit a couple of places I wanted to see along the way. The night before leaving though they informed me that I actually only had 1.5 days. As I really needed to get to Sydney I had no choice but to accept their new conditions. Still, it was a very cheap way for me to get to Sydney.

On the way I saw some great landscapes, but as it was on the motorway, I couldn't really stop and take pics.

My few weeks here have told me something about Aussies: that they are the friendliest people I have ever met.

A few evenings ago I was lost in Melbourne, and I approached a young woman. In the UK she would have probably screamed, hit me with her handbag and called for help. This young woman however, as she didnt know where the street I was looking for actually was, took out her iPhone and searched the internet for a map. And God knows I look rough!!!

I am now back in Sydney and tonight is our free BBQ in the hostel.

Falcon Crest

2009-07-19T22:19:00.000-07:00

How cute is Damien's dog?

I have spent the last few days at Damien's farm, which is just like Falcon Crest but instead of wine they have horses.

It is a lovely place and it is such an experience to come to his house, an opportunity to discover another part of Australia that you might otherwise not see when travelling, the rich old fashioned one.......we were driving in a Rolls Royce and I don't recall ever being in one before.
I kept thinking it was a Driving Miss Daisy moment, but that made me Miss Daisy

I stayed behind when Damien left, he offered me the use of the car but I was scared of causing damage to something the size of a tank.

Why is the engine in the steam train back to front?

So I am back in Melbourne and in two days I will be on my way in a campervan......I am taking a relocation vehicle, which has to be driven somewhere, and I am saving a lot of money in the process.

Living Out Of A Bag

2009-07-14T02:29:00.000-07:00

Cathedral Cove ( North Island )

(Click on Panoramic to view)

Today I am leaving to head back to Oz, it has been six months to the day since I left the UK.

Throughout the past six months I have seen some great sights and met some fantastic people. At the same time, life does get hard always moving from one place to another, packing and unpacking. I have been living out of a bag for six months, and sometimes I get bored of it.

I am bored of having worn the same clothes for six months and of the lack of little luxuries. I am really over not having all the required ingredients when I cook and that I have to make pasta without Parmesan cheese. And sometimes I realise it is quite sad seeing myself and other backpackers hunting around the supermarket, deciding what to have for dinner, based on what has been discounted.

However, I am not going to cut the trip short, I have so many things that I want to do before heading back. I would have little to do back home at the moment anyway, the recession is still going strong, and there is not much work.

But most importantly, for every low moment, there have been 20 amazing ones. For every time I have missed my things back home there has been a new friend to laugh with, a new sight to marvel at or a new food to try. For every time I have almost fallen into a dirty toilet there has been an awe inspiring moment. For every time I have been sick of eating porridge, just cos it is the cheapest and most filling breakfast in the world, I have had another ten that make me laugh.....

The Smelliest Town In the World

2009-07-12T00:23:00.000-07:00

I managed to get myself out of bed early enough to enjoy one last sunrise in Tongariro, and once again it was breathtaking. It was another cloudless morning, crisp and beautiful.
So leaving behind the National Park I drove North for a few hours to Taupo. Taupo is a little tourist town by the lake, and most of the backpackers who come here have some cash to spend which they throw from a plane.........by skydiving. I even condisered it, thinking perhaps it would help me get over my fear of heights. If I could jump from 12000 feet there would be nothing for me to fear anymore. Well, thankfully, I came to my senses. I just could not justify spending £130 doing something I would probably hate.

So, after a stop and short walk around town, I went over to Rotorua, the smelliest town in the planet, and considering I have been to Kolkota that's saying something.

Now that I am here, I can't comprehend why people want to live in a place that feels as if God is constantly above them on a fart-athon!!! It reeks, the smell of rotten eggs is everywhere.

Sometimes it recedes just to hit you later in the face when you least expect it. You don't even have to be near one of the vents to get a whiff of the rotten eggs.

I have spent the day doing some of the local walks, some of which are of an eerie beauty, the barren Sulphur Bay brings to mind images of a post nuclear war planet.

On my way, I came to realise that I am now at the equator of my trip and I am starting to make my way back.

Oddly, the next few countries are scarier to me than South East Asia. I have never been to Central or South America and, although I speak the language, they are probably as alien as Malaysia or Thailand could be.

Mount Doom and the One Ring

2009-07-09T02:10:00.000-07:00

View from the highest point in our walk

Way up at the top the sun shining through ice

Another really start for me, 6.30am, trying not to make too much noise so I won't wake up Andy, my snow boarding room mate. Once again, I have been very lucky, and following days of rain, fog and wind, today starts with stars shining in the sky, and the sun starting to show its first rays behind the mountains. It looks like it is going to be a great day for a trek.I am picked up at 7.15am by Sarah, a lovely Kiwi, too full of energy for this time in the morning, especially as I have not had a coffee, at times like this I really miss my expresso machine. When we get to the start of the trek we are joined by a mini bus from Taupa, the main centre for adrenaline rush seekers and also the world's skydiving capital. Like in Tasmania, and the Himalayas, it is bitterly cold and gusts of wind send us shivering while we get ready and kitted for the walk. For the first time I will be taking ice cruttons, as we will probably need them at higher altitude. As we start climbing snow covers our way, first as a thin layer, later on as a white blanket reflecting the rising sun. In the distance behind us we can see Mount Taranaki, around 100 km from where we are.

Mount Taranaki in the distance, but don't blink as you may miss itIt is the most climbed, and probably most photographed peak in NZ. This is Lord of the Rings Country, in front of us is Mount Doom, actually known as Mt Ngauruhoe, if I am not wrong it is where Sauron forged the One Ring.

Mount Doom, but I never found the ring of power

And a different view of the mountain, didn't get to see that one....However, covered in snow it looks completely different. Throughout the day we will come across other areas that were used in the movies. Sarah and Collin pushed us a bit as we were behind schedule and if we didn't make up time we might not be able to do the crossing, get to the highest point and come back. This seemed to work a treat and we all speeded up a bit. One of the most amazing things of the day was walking through some of the dead craters, which in the summer time are use for camping and playing rugby and cricket. Around midday we reached the highest point and Sarah confirmed that we would be able to the crossing. We had been told to bring our own lunch so I had prepared myself some pasta with eggs and bacon and brought lots of fruit to snack on the way. I was surprised when people starting taking out little sandwiches. It goes beyond me how people can live on one or two sandwiches. It is ok for a mid morning snack, what the hobbits will call elevenser's. So, when I was ready to tackle my huge lunch box a tragedy occurred.......i had forgotten my knife and fork!!!! I had brought extra salt and pepper, but nothing to eat my meal with......I soon realized that no one else would have a spare fork, they did not even have one that I could use after they had finished, so I decided to eat my dinner Indian style.

Another pic I don't want my mother to seeI loved the place where we stopped for lunch. The ground was warm, all snow had melted away, and steam was rising. The geothermal heat from the volcanoes comes through the soil and warms you up. As we needed to speed up Sarah decided that the best way to descend was to slide down the slope of the mountain . It was not a great look for me as I was instructed to tuck my fleece and jacket into my tracksuit bottoms and to slide on my arse - it was great fun if a bit undignified.

Sliding down on my wet arse

As I am sliding the small of rotten eggs hits me in the face. Initially I wondered how someone could fart so badly that I would notice it in this open space but as I got to the bottom I realized it could not be someone's wind. I eventually asked and someone explained it was the sulphur coming from the volcano. At the bottom of the slope we walked for a while through another snow-filled crater but now we had to set the tracks. At this time of the year there are hardly any trampers and the snow is pristine from the previous night, making walking a bit harder, but all that more scenic. Once we get across the mountains, and rest for a bit in the last hut/toiltet, the descent seems to be taking forever. The adrenaline kick you get from the views and the sliding wears off and now I am just dying to get to the end. I just want to get out of my wet socks......The team that took us there has the bus waiting for us, with some beers, how very thoughtful.
All in all it has been a great day, an amazing experience, and I am glad that I have been sensible and done it with a group, sometimes it is good to know your limitations. I am shattered and, although Andy invited me to go out with him and his snowboarding mates, I think I am just going to hit the sack.....

Tramping on ice

2009-07-08T02:28:00.000-07:00

Tongariro Volcano

I am now in a little town called National Park. It seems that no one could be bothered to give this place a name - it is inside Tongarino National Park so I guess it seemed like a logical choice.

I don't know if this really is a town or just a group of lodges, ski and snowboard shops and a few bars. However, no one can deny that the views from here are just amazing.

View from my hostelVolcanoes standing in the not too distanct bring back memories of hobbits, elfs and Aragon, and I am expecting to find Gandalf at some point while I am here.

My main reason to come here was to do the Tongarino Crossing, which is meant to be the best trek in New Zealand, but somehow I forgot that we are in the winter, and it is all covered by snow, so my plans have changed slightly. I am still going to do it, but will have to go with a group, and this time I will not be able to climb to the top of volcano as I wanted to. My friend Nat was saying how brave I was to have trekked in the Blue Mountains on my own, well now I am going to have to be less brave and I am feeling a bit out of place.

At this time of the year, the middle of their winter school holidays, there are mainly two types of people here. Snowboarding teenagers, and families with small children that come to ski for a bit and then play in the snow.

It is the wrong time to be here as everything is fully booked and I am having to pay $35 for a dorm instead of the usual $20 as all the cheaper ones have been booked. To make matters worse I have been told I need to leave by Friday as they are completely booked for the weekend.

I spent most of today visiting the area trekking, or as they call it here tramping, by the beautiful Lake Rotoponamu that fills a dead volcano. Then I went to the start of the Tongarino Crossing and realized that it would have been mad to attempt the 18 km on my own as the tracks are covered with snow and ice. So a very early start for me tomorrow at 6.30am and I don't want to think about how cold it will be.

Weather here is pretty mad, one second sun is shinning, next starts raining, though not sure my pick is that clear, lol

New Zealand's Answer to Girls Aloud

2009-07-05T20:24:00.000-07:00

Wellinton at sunset

I am getting a bit worried about this blog of mine. I was checking the incoming traffic and I suddenly realized that Google was sending me people who had searched for Glass High Heels......I know why this is happening, the story of that awful drag queen contest.....

Glass High Heels

......and I know that I should be grateful to Google for any traffic they give me, but do I really want to be the Information Centre for people with bad shoe taste.

Walking around town I have discovered New Zealand's answer to Girl Bands. The UK gave us Girls Aloud, South East Asia gave us the fabulous Wonder Girls, who I love, and New Zealand has given us Topp Twins. And they are huge here, lots of posters everywhere, and it is not even Pride time.

I am off to do some trekking tomorrow morning and will be back in a few days, though, this being New Zealand, there is probably internet all over the place.

Wine Tasting

2009-07-04T22:28:00.000-07:00

I am now down in New Zealand, on the other side of the world. I am finding it odd that when I get up most of my friends in Europe haven not been to bed, and some are still having their dinner.

I had a great flight to Auckland, as Emirates decided to upgrade me, which is always nice, I just wish it had been for an 8 hour flight - that said, I am not complaining. It was a pity that at 7.15am it was too early for the offer of free champagne, though not for the couple sitting nearby who had clearly been upgraded too.

From Auckland I took an internal flight down to Wellington, where Charles lives. I had not realized that this country is bigger than Britain, and a lot longer, so my idea of hopping on a bus to get there was out of the question.

Anyway, Wellington is a bit odd, well I think all of NZ is odd. There are only 4.3m Kiwis, a third of whom live in a city, Auckland, but then there are millions and millions of sheep, everywhere. And cows, thank God this is not India, cos if those cows were allow to roam free the country would come to a stand still. We actually did, when a herd that was been moved decided to travel on our road.

I spent the first two days catching up with Charles, going to gym, and in general just chilling after Tasmania. Then yesterday we went away for the weekend. Down to one of the wine producing areas in the country. It was a place called Martinborough, cute sleepy little town, that Wellingtonians like for its wine and fine dining...I am grateful to Charles for taking me there, it was lovely, and far off my budget.

Today we went down to Cape Palliser, much more my scene. A rugged, remote and fairly people free part of the region. It has an extremely dramatic landscape, black sand beaches, against a blue ocean and barren hills dotted with the odd sheep that braces itself in the unforgiven wind.

Not only did i get to enjoy the landscape but, for the first time, I also got to see some seals, though I had seen sea lions before in San Fran...they had a baby seal with them, so, so cute, I decided that the Canadian Government needs to be shot for allowing the seal cull every year...

We are now back in Wellington. I have got to stay another day as there are no buses tomorrow to Tongariro Park...I am going there to trek among the volcanos

Back on the Mainland

2009-06-30T04:30:00.000-07:00

My trip to Tasmania has now come to an end, and I'm really pleased that I listened to Stephen and Damien and made my way there.

After leaving Cradle Mountain, Fabian and I drove down to a place called Queenstown, a mining town on the edge of the Wilderness, a World Heritage Site that covers a great part of Western Tasmania.

We were really pleased with the fact that we got a room for two for the price that you would normally get dorms, but not so impressed by the kitchen...the whole place was gross. Should they have tried to grow Ebola or another deadly virus there, even it wouldn't have survived.

However, they did have electric blankets...I really felt like an old granny switching mine on. I guess I was just missing my hot water bottle.

The following day the sun was shining when we woke in the morning, so we decided to head towards Lake St Clair, as it was on the way and is the end of the Overland Track. However, you can't really plan anything in Tasmania at this time of the year, and within half an hour, it was grey, wet. Winter had hit us, after a nice spring morning...

Nevertheless we still stopped by the park and did a short trek to Platipus Bay, trying to see what are, probably, the oddest animals on earth...sadly, they were more sensible than us, and had decided to stay indoors.

Platipus Bay, no platipus though...

From there we went down to Mount Field National Park, the home of Russell Falls. I must admit that I was thinking, once you've seen one fall you've seen them all...but this is one is pretty good, especially as it had been raining so much lately.

Once back in Hobart we decided that we had not seen enough mountains, and so on Sunday morning we headed up Mount Wellington. Beautiful mountain, towering over Hobart, giving amazing views over the city and the area around it. Strangely, it was free...I was surprised that they had not turned it into a National Park and slapped a $22 entrance fee on it. Honestly, here they charge you for everything...

It was another great morning, deep blue skies, sun warming up our backs as we took the path across the bush and upwards...but as we got closer clouds moved in to cover the summit, so I couldn't get the perfect pic of the bay I wanted.

Having spent a week in Tasmania, I have decided that there are few places I have visited that attracted me so much. It may sound like a cliche, but people here really are truly friendly, welcoming, love to talk, to the point that even I can't get a word in.

I will be back, as one American General said when leaving some Pacific islands to the invading Japanese.

Well, Fabian has now left for Sydney and I am back to travelling on my own. I'm in Melborune at the moment, but only for a couple of days, as I am heading down to New Zeleand tomorrow where I'll hook up with Charles again. I must get a travel guide soon, there is so much to see there and I'll only have two weeks, not even that.

I have really enjoyed meeting Fabian, odd how you can relate to someone so different from you. He was half the age of my ex and most of my friends. He kept reminding me that I was so old myself..

There was something going on in Federation Square in Melborune...

Why Can't I Just Take Up Knitting?

2009-06-26T23:42:00.000-07:00

View from Dove Lake with Cradle Mountain in the background

6am and I'm suddenly failing to comprehend why I have agreed to wake up.

Actually I think it was my idea to wake up at this God forsaken hour. I can't believe alarm clocks can be set this early. We are up this early to climb Cradle Mountain, it is a 6 to 8 hour trek, but we need to be out of the National Park soon as our 24 hour pass expires at 2.33pm.

I must say that everything in Australia seems very expensive, but travelling with a 21 year old backpacker you learn to look into every possibility if enables you to save money. So yesterday we waited for a couple of hours after reaching the park to do an afternoon walk, as it would leave us enough time to climb the mountain today, even if we had to start walking with the first ray of sunshine, and get out before having to buy another pass.

Fabian will eventually turn me into a criminal...I have now learned how to run washing machines and dryers using cotton buds instead of coins, hence saving $6, enough for our breakfast. Anyway, going back to today's trek, I believed it was going to simple, like the ones I did in the Himalayas, but without the lack of oxygen. So off we went, heading out just as the first rays of sun cut through the darkness of the night. Driving carefully, so to avoid killing a jumping kangaroo, we reached the car park by Dove Lake.

Too early, not sure why I got that odd smile on
It is bitterly cold, the wind cutting through several layers of clothing, polar fleece included. And like always I can't help but wonder why am I doing this, why am I out in this cold, when I could have just stayed in bed for a few extra hours, and it was a warm bed.

Anyway, it is too late to now regret having got out of bed in the first place so better forget about it. The trek starts by Dove Lake, at around 900 meters, and follows for a while the Overland Track. I am determined to come back to Tasmania to do the Overland Track, it is 6 to 8 days walking from Cradle Mountain down to Lake St Claire, in the Tasmanian Wilderness. Having had a glimpse of it, a cheeky check, I think it must be an amazing experience to trek across the plateau, though you have to carry your own food, sleeping bag and tent. Initially the path up to the plateau is fairly straight forward, a mixture of easy trek with some rough and steep, but in general fairly do-able.

By 10.30am we reach Marion's Lookout, not sure who this Marion is but the view from there is amazing. For another little while the path gets really easy, flat over the plateau with the imposing view of the Cradle Mountain range ahead of us. As we get closer I realize that this is not going to be just a walk, it is not pure trekking. Getting to the top means jumping from rock to rock, lifting yourself, and especially not looking down.

Lots of rocks to climb

At one point during the ascent, I did look down, and my fear of heights kicked in. Feeling a bit dizzy, I decided not to look down again, and specially not to think about how to get down. I also cursed Fabian for not having registered our walk, a really stupid mistake. Due to the extremely changeable weather in this part of Tasmania, people can find themselves stuck on the summit, or half way up, and having to be rescued by rangers...how embarrassing!!!

However, that wouldn't have been our case, as no one knew that we were there...Once I decided that it was time to stop being a drama queen, I kept going. Ascending was a slow process, as the summit was icey and slippery. To make matters worse, everytime we thought we got to the top, a new higher top seemed to appear just as you lifted your head over the rocks. Nonetheless we got there, to the top. It was only 1545 meters high, but it felt as hard as the Himalayas. The climbing itself was harder, but obviously there was no lack of oxygen. The view from the top, especially over to Benson Peak, is awesome.

And then you get the kick from what you have just achieved, the adrenaline rush, the best high...Our plan was to have our lunch at the top, Mother Hen (me) had prepared pasta with bacon and eggs. However, clouds seemed to be closing in and we decided to head down as soon as we got our picture taken. Time to leave...

Fabian and I at the top of Cradle Mountain, Benson Peak in the background

I am getting worried that this trip is really getting me hooked on some new hobbies that are anything but cheap, bloody scuba diving, mountain trekking...could I not just take up knitting? It would be so much cheaper....

Cradle Mountain National Park

2009-06-24T21:28:00.000-07:00

Crater Lake

We have eventually reached the Wilderness of Tasmania, and it is as beautiful as I had hoped for.

We have also been blessed with some great weather and, best of all, I have seen a kangaroo!!!

It was nice to finally see one that was alive as I have seen dozens dead by the side of the road.

I am really enjoying Fabian's company, a 21 year old German who is mad about hiking, who has spent several months here in Oz, including a few weeks working on a cattle station. I am actually thinking about doing some work on a farm, called wooffing, where you just work for accomodation and food, so it's legal.......I am far too old to get a holiday working visa, sob, sob.

On our first day here we walked up to Crater Lake and then down to the Dove Lake. I am really regretting not having planned this better. If I had more time and a sleeping bag, like the one I sent back to the UK (!), I would have done the Overland Track - 7 days trekking across North Tasmania, which looks awesome from what I've seen.

I kept thinking about Jurassic Park...but then again I've got too much imagination...

Tomorrow we are up very early to climb Cradle Mountain....

Getting into Tasmania

2009-06-23T17:23:00.001-07:00

Fog rising from the bottom of the valley. I am over this fog thing, it is everywhere!!

Tasmania is absolutely stunning.

The island is rugged, wild, but most of all beautiful and its people are extremely welcoming. Everytime we stop by the road to take a picture a passing car will stop to see if we need any help.

The only problem we have had so far is the weather. Fog seems to cover the country, or at least half of it. Sadly when we went down to Wineglass Bay the fog had decided to cover that part of the island, after we drove 200km!!!

I am travelling with Fabian, a 21 year old hitchhiker I picked up on the road yesterday. He's great company and it's great to share the cost of the petrol.

It's winter here so most of the buses have been cancelled and I have had to hire a car to get to the main sites......I know God will punish me for the environmental cost of it.

Ross - little town established in 1821 with a lovely church:

We're off to Cradle Mountain today. We wanted to sleep in the free huts but I have posted my sleeping bag back to Spain so we will have to use the backpacker's dorms, which are expensive at £15 each!!!

The Three Sisters

2009-06-19T03:04:00.000-07:00

Clouds started to break up

Sun breaking through the forest and the clouds

I managed to make my way out to the Blue Mountains.

Weather has turned wet and awful, but I decided I needed to see the landscape even if the blue haze was not there.

After a 2 hour train journey from Central Station I reached this sleepy little town that sits on top of one of the gorges. It is an odd place to locate a town, almost perfect if you are suicidal.

The view from any of the look out points is absolutely stunning. And although I would have probably liked to see it in all its blue glory in perfect sunshine, it was still a great spectacle to enjoy, even with the clouds.
Billy no mates taking a picture of himself

The main downside with the clouds was that I didn't get to see the Three Sisters, three pinnacles that raise one side of the valley, and they are one of the most iconic images of Australia.

However, I decided to take one of the walks alongside the valley and down in to the gorge.

Funnily enough, as I got closer to the Sisters, the cloud cover lifted, though I could only see the one.

The walk down to the bottom of the valley is a killer on the legs, descending on really steep stairs. And being low season and winter, when you get to the bottom you find yourself completely alone.
There are some great ferns at the bottom of the gorge, protected from the drying winds by the mountains

I have decided that birds are completely mad in this country, they are so loud. Walking through the forest at the bottom of the valley you would be woken from your day dreaming by the loud call of a bird, that then turns out to be no bigger than a sparrow.

All in all the place is beautiful, the view breathtaking, so I've decided to head back there on Sunday.

Tonight though I'm going out to some party in a club, a full on gay event...

With Glass High Heels and Holes In Her Tights

2009-06-15T00:58:00.000-07:00

Two of the most famous sights in Sydney, the Harbour Bridge and the Opera House

So I am back in the First World, and it's really a shock to the system.

I arrived a few days ago into Melbourne, a bit stressed as I had just realized that Damien, my friend here, lived in Sydney, not in Melbourne. Just one of those little mistakes that anyone can make surely?!

Anyway, as soon as I got to Melbourne I knew I had to leave. A brown snake, one of the deadliest in the world, had just bitten a guy in the middle of the business centre...clearly not a place for me.

Sydney is amazing. It is so relaxed, beautiful, with some great sights. I am really lucky that although it is the middle of the winter the weather is quite mild, it's like spring in London.

I love the contrast between modern and old, the same as you find in the City in London. But here there is also the small vs. the big.

I was amazed by this little cute building standing in the middle of the business district

Damien has decided that I need to get out and about, I've not been in a gay place or with many gay people since I left London. So after dinner with some of his friends, including a former Aussie Bum model, we went to a bar.

Not sure what was going on, it was some type of amateur drag queen contest, it was Priscila gone wrong. Each of them were a car crush, actually some were a train wreck. My favourite was some monstrosity miming something that I couldn't recognise, wearing a black little dress, with a huge hole in her tights and the nastiest glass heel platform shoes.

Had I not felt sorry for them, it would have been funny.

After just coming from Thailand were the ladyboys can be the perfect replica of a woman, these people looked more like aliens.

So I didn't get a snog...

I have booked my ticket for Tasmania, I am going trekking there for a week...

Not the usual pigeon you will have in London or Madrid

Jungle Train

2009-06-10T05:31:00.000-07:00

On my last night in the Perhentians I got to enjoy a great storm, to the point that I never made it back to my hut. It was too risky to try to cross the jungle. I could have been washed away, or so I was told.

I couldn't find him on my fish ID book, but I think he is a homo sapiens, of the 'very cute' type, almost as cute as a Nemo...

I managed to get up this morning at 5.15 to get the jungle train that slowly, very slowly, cuts through the peninsula and gets you near Kuala Lumpur.

Leaving behind the jungle...

The main reason I managed to wake up on time is that I was sharing my bedroom with a 21 year old that had an alarm clock, as I have lost my phone and never had a watch, and so was at a loss of what to do.

To be honest my paternal instincts had gone up into top gear when I met Rick on the boat that was taking us out of the island. He mentioned he was going to hospital with a terrible diahhrea that had lasted a full 24 hours. I initially wondered if he had swine flu. All was clear though when he explained that two nights ago he and his friend had drunk a large bottle of local rum, or what I would call, cheap petrol. I told him he was just hungover.

I had been there.

After our leaving party in India I had had the loose motions for three days. Going to the doctor would make it worse, as they didn't drink, being a muslim country, and would have stuffed him with useless antibiotics. I loved taking back my mother hen job...

Two more days and I will be off to Melbourne, no more mosquitoes, then again, no more shorts, it is going to be so cold.....

I Don't Want To Leave

2009-06-08T01:47:00.001-07:00

My first underwater picture...

I am not ready to leave paradise as yet. I am going to miss almost everything about this place.

Probably, the only thing I won't miss are the mosquitoes and the big lizards that crawl in front of me in the jungle and make me jump.

The islands are completely carpeted by emerald green jungle apart from 10 to 20 meter wide strips by some of the beaches where development has taken place. There are three colours here, green, shades of blue, from aquamarine for the sea, to intense blue for the sky, and white for the sand.

I have had such a great time here, that even going to Australia is looking a lot less appealing.

I'm actually surprised how much I have enjoyed diving this time, and how much I have improved, so much so that I'm considering taking the next course up, dive master.

This would give me the chance to work in a dive center, but takes 6 to 8 weeks to do, and it is not cheap.

Ok, they may not be sharks, but the little clown fish are very territorial...

Also once you finish you start a the very bottom, well just above the trainees. For, although you pay for the couurse, at the same time you are working in the dive centre where you train.

Maybe it would be good for me to work a few months as the minion, to eat a bit of humble pie.

So, yes, I am thinking that maybe after I cross over to Central America I may stay in one place instead of travelling around much and just dive and work. Once I am a DM I can then just move to another part.

It may just all be me day dreaming again, another change of plan...I've changed them so many times already. Nonetheless, some of the unplanned parts of the trip have been the best, for example the Himalayas.

Anyway, I've got a bit of time to decide, and need to do proper research about the weather, cost, etc....

My Heart Skipped A Beat

2009-06-03T21:20:00.000-07:00

There is not a lot to do in the Perhentians, just laze around, dive, snorkle, swim, but it is more than enough to keep me happy.

Yesterday I went snorkelling for the day, visiting several points on both islands. It was a great day, I swam with turtles, and with sharks. The first shark I saw a couple of days ago was a bamboo shark, they live at the bottom of the sea and seem fairly harmless. However, the ones we saw yesterday were black tip sharks. They are the scary looking ones, but as they're only 1 meter or so long, you don't worry that much that you are about to be eaten.

I am using my last few dives to improve my breathing, as I normally use too much air and the dives need to be cut short. It is all about relaxing and moving as little as possible to maximise the oxygen.

I am really loving the islands, not sure about my room mate though. I have decided to call him Fred. He is the gecko that lives in my hut. I love geckos, they eat away all the insects that decide to bother you in your room. However, Fred is no longer on my Christmas Card list. I was happily reading my book outside in the little balcony of my hut, when suddendly, uninvited and unexpected Fred dropped himself on my head.

My little balcony where last night my heart almost skipped a beat...

I almost lost all dignity when the stupid lizard landed on me. I jumped, I shouted. I very nearly wet myself.

There are few other risks on the islands, probably one of the them though is to be sunbathing and get killed by a falling coconut...what a shameful death, I can just imagine the news, 'death by coconut'.

I have a couple more days in this tropical paradise and then will be making my way back to Kuala Lumpur before travelling on to Australia.

Shipwrecks and sharks

2009-06-01T04:01:00.000-07:00

I am sitting by the beach, enjoying a beautiful sunset, with a beer, recovering from my second day diving.

I am in the Perhertians, a National Park in North Malaysia, famous for its diving and snorkelling, but set in a magnificent tropical setting.

The islands are stunning, and they have been looked after much more than other places such as Ko Tao.

I am so pleased that I have come here, it is the perfect antidote for the sadness and loneliness that I was feeling after Stephen had left.

Today I've done my first shipwreck dive and I also saw my first shark, but won't bore everyone with the details of all the amazing, colourful fish I saw in the last two days.

As the sun sets, this tropical paradise becomes an eerie, slightly strange place....

The call of prayer breaks the silence, that had only previously been broken by the singing of birds and the low and gentle rumble of a distant electricity generator.

But in the distance, standing on top of the hill, two very large wind power generators remind us how Malaysia has embraced modernity, without leaving behind its traditions.

I am in a Muslim country where alcohol, at least in this part, is scarce, where most ethnic Malay women wear headscarves. A country were converting away from Islam is a crime. Nonetheless, Malaysia has also been able to integrate all the different religions that live here. They have worked and lived in peace since the troubles following independence.

So far at least, there has been no fundemantalist attacks, and the country seems to enjoy a more egualitarian prosperity than I have seen elsewhere.

Back To Life (Back To Reality)

2009-05-29T03:51:00.000-07:00

Just like my last guest house in India...

My life of luxury has come to an end, but it decided to go with a bang.

Stephen had booked another 5 star hotel for our last two nights in Kuala. As his flight was leaving early on the following day he picked up a hotel near the airport.

So when we got back from Brunei and walked into the hotel we were really quite surprised by how nice the hotel was, especially for an airport hotel.

As we checked in we were told that were not booked in there, but upstairs...it was clear that the hotel was too good for us.

I was left speecheless however when we realized that upstairs was not 'the staff quarters', but the Lounge with all the best rooms.

Everything there was complimentary, they even had complimentary sushi to go with your complimentary evening cocktails...I am used to complimentary bed bugs, and sheets with all the luxury of a roll of toilet paper.

Saying bye to Stephen and Maeve...

It has been so nice to have Stephen here, not just for the luxury. We have spent time doing normal things, such as watching DVDs, things that I can't do nowaways.

Now though, I am feeling sad, and lonely.

Will need to get myself out there again and talk to strangers. I have been travelling with friends for the last 7 weeks or so and it is odd to be on my own again and not meeting anyone for a while.

Brunei's main mosque...

To cheer myself up I am going to make my way to the Perhentian Islands, a tropical paradise with great snorkelling. I need to do some serious swimming as I've put on 7 kilos, and am now 4 kilos heavier than when I left London....

Things that you miss

2009-05-25T22:35:00.000-07:00

Proboscis Monkey

It's funny the things you miss when you're away.

I knew I would always miss my friends.

There is no doubt that I have been blessed with the best friends I could ever have. I got some friends that have never let me down, even if I have let them down.

Besides my friends I have missed things that have surprised me. I don't miss the odd luxury, the Molton Brown Shower Gel, the end of Battlestar Galactica, the endless list of needs and wants...

Of all the unexpected things I have missed cooking, so on my last day in Brunei I am cooking, I am cooking lunch and I am cooking dinner.

Lunch will be Jamie Oliver's Creamy butternut squash with spicy chicken and dinner will be Melanie's dish Chicken a la dijonese...

I miss my normal life, my old life, but I am glad that I am here

In the meantime these are the pics from our trip into the jungle where we were lucky to see the male proboscis monkey, a long nosed monkey that lives in Borneo.

My very last day in Borneo before I am heading back to the continent and to slumming it.

Brave is the man who beats his fears

2009-05-22T17:24:00.000-07:00

Brunei is a very odd country, full of strange little things that really throw me.

It's a dry state but, if you are a non muslim, you can bring alcohol into the country. So ex-pats are constantly crossing the border to bring across their allowance.

One of the best things is the need to show people toilet etiquette. All over this small country, toilets have a message explaining that you do not need to put your feet on the sides of the throne - so many toliet seats have been damaged by misuse.

View leaving the orangutan centre...

The last two days have been fascinating. On our last day on the Malaysian side of Borneo, Sabah, we went to an orangutan rescue centre. The story of the only great apes of Asia is a sad one. Their habitat is being destroyed at an alarming speed, to the extent that some believe that by 2020 no rainforest at all will be left in Borneo. Sadly, I saw a lot of that.

Orangutans are being displaced and, although several centres are trying to rescue them, their future is bleak without a home.

These great apes, that share 96% of our genes, are fascinating and cute as hell. I could not help but feel sorry for them and wondering when will we stop destroying all that is beautiful around us.

I had been quite sceptical about what I read about Brunei. It promotes itself as having 75% forest cover, with some of the most pristine rainforest in the world, as Laos also did.

Well in this case it is all true.

I can't tell if it is 70 or 75% but there are trees, and trees, and more trees.

Yesterday we went up the river and across to the other side of Brunei to the Temburong National Park.

The boats that do the journey are called flying coffins. I hoped this was to do with their shape and not their speed and the number of accidents.

The best and worst thing of it was taking the jungle canopy walk.

Fear is irrational and cannot be controlled. My fear of snakes goes beyond me to the point that when I once saw one in Thailand, actually it was being waved in my face, I tried to throw one of my best friends towards the snake to get away from it. A very scooby doo moment, I even jumped on his lap.

My fear of heights is slightly less hysterical but, going up the really narrow tower, I was sure I was going to slip on one of the platforms and plummet 40 metres to the ground.

As I said, this was stupid, fear is irrational, but I couldn't help but think about it. As I went up, sweat was dribbling from my face, a mix of heat and fear. But, as Indiana Jones said, bravery is not the person with no fears but the one who beats their fears. I decided to go first so no one would see my face of sheer fear, pure panic.

Nonetheless, when I eventually got to the top the view was breathtaking. The rainforest extended undisturbed as far as my poor sight could see, and my gloom and doom mood lifted.

There may be hope.

The hope is that we pay to preserve our forests. Brunei has not chopped theirs because they have oil resources to pay for the needs of their people. We, the rich of the world, need to pay for the others to preserve their forest, the lungs of our planet, for future generations.

Somehow I agreed to finish the day trip tubing down the river. Sitting on a huge tube from a tractor inner wheel, I drifted down the river, very aware that we were in the middle of a jungle where pythons, crocodiles and an endless list of reptiles live by the water or in it.

Still here, so I guess i made it.

Finding Nemo

2009-05-20T04:35:00.000-07:00

That was some weird cloud formation...

I'm still living my new life of luxury, but have managed to squeeze some excitement into it.

I have shaved and I am wearing clean clothes...

Yesterday we went to the Tunku Abdul Raham National Park, which is only 20 minutes away from Kota Kinabulu, the capital of Sabah, Malaysian Borneo. We visited Mamutik Island, a tiny islet, covered by forest and little else. I spent hours snorkelling, as the fish were great, though the coral has been damaged by bleaching. I managed to see lots of beautiful, colourful fish, though I only remember the name of the Clown Anemona Fish, aka Nemo.

And today we went to the bottom of the highest mountain in South East Asia, Mount Kinabalu, 4093 meters all told. We planned this badly, so weren't able to trek to the top, but just the view from the beginning of the trek alone was awesome.

We also visited another National Park, called Hot Springs, a very strange place, a sort of mixture of Jungle and Spa, where people go to 'take the waters' or basically a jungle canopy walk. It was an odd experience, as I am terrified by heights, but I managed it.

We didn't get to see many animals though as the place was full of tourists, mostly Chinese, screaming.

One of our group had to stop at one point in the morning for a break. Turned out she had just given birth and was in some difficulties. The guide was horrified with the thought that the baby might be in her handbag and wanted to know where was the child. Then everything was thankfully, or not, explained.

The mother had simply popped, then left the resulting newborn in Singapore and headed off with her husband on their already booked holiday.

Even I was shocked by the lack of parental love they had.

Taken the waters, but waiting for the mini pool to fill up...

Tomorrow we are back in Brunei. It is a strange country, deeply religious. The Sultan has prohibited the teaching of music following some of the most strict rules of Islam, but he had the Pussy Cat Girls or Dolls or whatever they are called over for his birthday celebrations...

On the positive side though, because they're so rich, they haven't needed to chop down their forests, so we'll be going jungle trekking when we get there.

I just don't know what to do with myself

2009-05-18T16:22:00.000-07:00

Petronas towers from below

The last few days have been amazing.

I have thoroughly enjoyed myself, just sitting by the pool, going to the gym, and eating far too much. I have actually managed to put on 2 kilos in four days.

This is not Kolkata

As I am still the same cheapskate, everytime we have gone for a buffet I have eaten so much they have had to call in a crane to get me out of the restaurant. In my view, I am just building reserves for times of scarcity. I have had flashes of 'Monty Python' when the guy explodes after having eaten too much.

Kuala Lumpur is a thoroughly modern city and I have been impressed by its ability to integrate its different communitities. I have also noticed that lots of ethinic malays, mainly muslims, are more liberal than I was expecting, and girls don't always wear headscarves. However, mixing within the communities is another issue. If you marry a muslim you have to convert, and converting from Islam to another religion is a crime in Malaysia.

View from the sky bridge, 149 meters up

We are now on our way to Borneo, to visit Brunei and then Sabah, on the Malaysian side of Borneo.

A Life of Luxury

2009-05-16T02:15:00.001-07:00

One Petronas Tower at night.I finally got to Kuala and met up with Stephen.
Stephen in the Chan See Shu Yuen Temple in China Town

It has been so nice to see someone I have been friends with for so long and, of course, to catch up on all the gossip.
Kuala Lumpur is an amazing city, I am completely dazzled by it. I knew this was a modern city but I was not ready for what this city, and what I seen of Malaysia, seems to be.

Its motorways are modern, three lanes wide on each side, and the city is clean, modern, and bright though maybe just a bit too clinical and sterile. Walking around the shopping area last night you could easily have thought that you were in Time Square with the bright lights, neon, and skyscrapers.
Stephen is treating me to a bit of luxury so we are staying in a five star hotel. I got here first and checked in after 28 hours of travelling. Unshaved, unshowered, wearing a dirty vest and old hat. In spite of my misgivings, and body odour, check in was straight forward and I was soon able to chill in an air conditioned room, with a toilet not a hole. There was loo role in the bathroom and I had to stop myself from throwing it straight in my rucksack for future requirements.
I was not sure if this was there to be eaten, my dinner looked to good

It is so nice to have Stephen here and to just take things slowly. Kuala Lumpur is very hot from midday to late afternoon so I am going to the gym, then we will have a beer......so, so different from my life in Kolkota.

This is probably the campest thing I have ever seen, this huge God in front of the Batu Caves

Way up to the caves
We are off tomorrow to have dinner in the revolving restaurant in KL Communications Tower

New Friends 2

2009-05-14T06:42:00.001-07:00

Since I set out on this little excursion of mine I have met a lot of new people.

However, it's only been in the last week that I have felt truly sorry for seeing some of them go.

I had met some really nice people before, some of which I'm still in contact with. Indeed, there has been many that I genuinely liked:

New Friends

But since then I have met others, and in the last few weeks I have really grown fond of Ignasi and Consuelo and Roberto.

Ignasi and I could not have been more different, and he did annoy me slightly with his rebel attitude (or what he called rebel, in reality he was just contradicting everything I said). But at the same time he has a heart of gold, and very little negative to say about anyone.

Why am I looking like that, and with that moustache?

Consuelo, aka 'Concha tu madre' is just plain mad, absolutely bonkers, and speaks Spanish and English with the strongest, campest accent I have ever heard. She could be straight from a Venezuelan soap opera, or H from Steps reborn.

And then there's Roberto, or as someone described him, Ronald MacDonald. He was aiming to meet us again in Kolkata, but the Indian visa put him off.

Anyway, Consuelo decided to stay in Kolkata and help the poor in Mother Theresa's institution. Ignasi came back with me to Bangkok and has now gone to Mongolia, as he starts his long way back to Spain.

I have managed to entertain myself despite their abandonment, and have rekindled myself with some old friends...the Wonder Girls. I discovered that my favorite song from the days of the water festival was a remix of 'Nobody, Nobody But You'. Not sure if it would work in a club in Vauxhall, London, but it is awesome.

The rainy season has started and it is pretty spectacular. All hell breaks loose for fifteen minutes, the loudest thunders, the heaviest downpours. Suddenly everything stops, and you get to enjoy the most beautiful skies, especially during the sunset.

I am now on my way to Kuala Lumpur where I am meeting Stephen. So looking forward to seeing an old friend. Feeling a bit apprehensive about staying in a 5 star hotel though.

Not sure they're going to let me in.

Why do we do this?

2009-05-08T23:11:00.000-07:00

As I near the middle of my year travelling, I sometimes wonder why am I here. Why am I living in these conditions? Why am I not back in my nice Victorian flat in London? Surely things are hard these days back in the UK, but sitting on a bus for 16 hours is not my idea of fun either.

These thoughts particularly came to mind the other day.

We were in Varanasi trying to reach Kolkata to fly back to Bangkok.

I needed to go to the bathroom so, after paying to use the public toilets, I braced myself for the experience.

The toilet was gross, and that is the biggest understatement ever. There was a jobby on the side, someone had missed the hole and didn't push it in. There were red stains everywhere, on the floor and walls. To most people it would have looked like blood but at least I knew they were spits, the result of chewing paan. Only one word comes to mind, yuk!!!!

So there I was squatting, trying to keep some dignity during a completely undignified moment, when the door fell on top of me - it had come of the hinges.

I somehow managed to keep my balance by holding on to the toilet roll that was on the floor with one hand, while I used my other hand to hold the flimsy door.

At that precise moment, while the locals amused themselves with the image of the tourist with pants down around his ankles and the door on top of him, I wondered why?

The thought only lasted one second, if that. I just had to think about all the things that have happened to me, all the great things I have seen, and the amazing people I have met.

I have decided that I would rather be here, shit included, than back there, though I do miss my friends and sometimes I miss things that I used to take for granted, like a hot shower.

She was also queuing for the yoga classes....

I felt really sorry for this kid, he was not any older than 5 but his face showed that he had had a hard life